Home Inspections

Aluminum Wire Worries (Answer)

2010-07-13T01:27:00.000-07:00

Hey Mike,
The large cable you see on the outside of the house is the service entrance cable. These cables are commonly aluminum, as are many of the 240 amp circuits in the house. These aluminum cables are made up of a number of smaller aluminum wires stranded together to make the larger cable. These wires are considered safe and up to industry standards. They should not be confused with single strand aluminum wire.

While single-strand aluminum wire is not always considered inherently dangerous, it has been attributed with an increased hazard of electrical shorts and fire at the connections. These connections generally are outlets, switches, and lighting circuits. In the main electrical panel, the single strand aluminum wire would be found in the 15 and 20 amp circuit breakers. This wiring is found in homes built between 1962 and 1973. Technology does exist to limit the problems at these connections. It is recommended that a qualified electrician inspect the connections to determine what type of remedy is best for the wiring in question.

The best way to be sure of the presence of single strand aluminum wiring is by having a standard home inspection. If a home inspector reports the presence of single strand aluminum wiring, it is necessary to consult a licensed electrician for further evaluation. A standard home inspection is designed to identify the presence of such things. If issues like this are present, it is important to consult a specialist in this field, to assure your safety.
Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Aluminum Wire Worries (Question)

2010-07-12T01:26:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,
We are currently house shopping, and I have a concern because I have heard that aluminum wiring is not something you want in your house. When I am looking at houses, I keep reading on the big cable that comes into the house the word “aluminum”.
Is aluminum in your house a bad thing or not?
How can I tell for sure?
Thanks,
Mike
I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Keeping on top of things

2010-07-07T07:29:00.000-07:00

We all understand the importance of routine or preventative maintenance - to limit our risk of premature failure on large- ticket items, such as cars, furnaces, and air conditioning units. However, millions of dollars a year are spent replacing roofs that may have lasted a lot longer, had routine maintenance been done.
Roof maintenance is an important part of overall home maintenance and should get the same routine check-up that we give our heating and cooling systems. With any system, routine maintenance will help prolong the service life and keep it at maximum efficiency.
Many things can contribute to shortening your roof's life, including algae build-up. If your roof has dark spots, you may have algae. These stains are often confused for sap, soot, and rust. Algae needs inorganic material to support its growth, which it gets from the filler material in the asphalt/fiberglass shingles. Algae is found in approximately 75 to 80 percent of the United States, but grows best in warm, damp climates. If algae staining is the only symptom your roof is exhibiting, it may be professionally cleaned to add years to the life of your roof system.
Proper ventilation of the attic space is important to prevent premature aging of the shingles due to excessive heat. Proper ventilation also will reduce moisture build-up that can damage the wood components of the roof. An easy way to check for attic ventilation is to observe the attic space in the daylight with the attic lights off. Where you see daylight, you see venting. It is also important that you have cross ventilation. For example, if the roof has soffit vents (vents at the eves) and ridge vents, the air will flow from the soffit vents through the attic to the ridge vents. Cross-venting helps prevent hot spots in the attic. You may see soffit vents on the outside, under the eves, but may not see light in that area from the attic side. That commonly occurs when the attic insulation has covered the soffit vents. If this is the case, pull the insulation back until the soffit vent is open and look for light.
It is also important to have good insulation in the attic, especially if you live in a cold climate. Proper insulation will help prevent ice damming. Ice damming occurs when the heat from your house passes through a poorly insulated attic, thus melting snow or ice on the roof, allowing the melted snow or ice to run down to the lower edge of the roof where it can refreeze. As the snow or ice refreezes, it forms a dam. When the dam gets large enough, the water that is hitting it will start running back and under the shingles. This will cause the roof to leak and can damage ceilings and walls.
Here are some preventive maintenance tips that can help reduce leaks and avoid premature roof failure:
 Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
 Keep the roof free of debris.
 Keep gutters free of debris and in good working order.
 From the ground, with the aid of binoculars, inspect the roof for missing or broken shingles.
 Inspect all flashing around chimneys, valleys, pipes, and butting roofs.
 In your attic, with the aid of a flashlight, inspect the wood decking under the shingles for water stains.
 If you see signs of leaking, have it repaired right away.

If your roof is more than twenty years old, you should consider having it inspected by a professional roofer.
Remember your roof is a major system of your house. Deferred maintenance can be very costly.

Draining Problem (Answer)

2010-05-24T03:25:00.000-07:00

Hey Val,

Judging from the age of your house and the symptoms you described, you probably have a clogged or collapsed yard drain. The drain line for the sewer runs from your house to the street, where it connects to the public sewer system. These lines can be crushed from tree roots or get clogged over time.
The reason that the drains only clog when you use a lot of water is because the lines are only partially blocked. Under light use, the drains can handle the water without backing up. With heavy use, the lines fill faster than the partially clogged drain can drain.
For a temporary fix, you can buy some drain line cleaning crystals that you can flush down the toilet. But the best way to fix this is to have a plumber clean and scope the drain.
If they tell you that you have “Orangeburg” pipe, you will need it replaced. Orangeburg is the brand name of a bituminous fiber sewer pipe material that was made by rolling tar and paper into the shape of a tube. The pipe tends to deteriorate with age and no longer maintains a round interior circumference. The pipe can be further damaged with the use of routers. These pipes also are susceptible to damage from plant roots.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Draining Problem (Question)

2010-05-21T01:23:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

We live in a slab home that was built in the sixties. We are on the public sewer system. We have lived here for ten years and up to this point we have never had a problem with slow drains. The weird thing is that the drains work fine until we wash a lot of clothes or take several baths in a row. Then everything backs up.

Thanks for any help you can give us.

Val

Thanks for your question.

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Chimney Cap (Answer)

2010-05-18T06:39:00.000-07:00

Dear Amelia,

Chimney caps are protective coverings for chimneys that are usually made of aluminum, galvanized or stainless steel, or copper. Most have a mesh screening that serves as a spark arrestor and barrier against animals. They also prevent rain from entering the flue of the chimney.

All chimneys, even unused ones need a cap to keep out rain. The rain will soak into the masonry and bring moisture into your house.

Since this chimney is not in use, you can either use a chimney cap, or block the flue. A two inch masonry block can be caulked or cemented on the top of the flue to seal it completely off. This a more permanent fix.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Chimney Cap (Question)

2010-05-17T06:36:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

We recently purchased a thirty-year-old house that has been completely updated.

Our home inspector said that the chimney does not have a cap. He also said that the chimney was used for the old furnace and the old water heater. Both have been removed and replaced with new units that have their own venting system.

Since the chimney is no longer being used for anything, should I still put a cap on it?

Can you help me understand?

Amelia

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Deck Staining (Answer)

2010-05-14T06:31:00.000-07:00

Hey Mark,

It is difficult to put a time factor on when it is safe to seal, paint or stain newly constructed porches or decks. What really matters is the moisture content of the material. The moisture content for paint, sealer, and stain applications should not exceed 14 percent. To determine the moisture content, you will need to rent a moisture meter. Some of these meters have probes that look like pins; they are only intended to touch on the surface for the moisture reading, not actually inserted into the material.

For older decks, it’s a bit easier to determine when to stain or reseal. A simple test would be to check the deck after a short or moderate rainfall – or pour a half-cup of water on slowly. If water is beading on the surface, the deck is sealed and protected. If the water is absorbed quickly, it’s time to reseal.

There are many brands and types of deck finish; none is perfect for all situations. Their success lies not in the type of ingredients – or the price – but in how well they penetrate the wood. The more they soak into the wood, the longer the finish will last. Be sure, however, to get a sealer with ultraviolet protection, since sun can be your deck’s worst enemy.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Deck Staining (Question)

2010-05-13T06:29:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

I built a new house with a deck in May 2003. I have heard that you shouldn’t stain your deck or porch for a year, but I would like to do so before winter even though the wood is pressure-treated (the new kind).

Which is correct?

Mark

Thanks for your question.

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Not Enough Circuits (Answer)

2010-05-11T06:42:00.000-07:00

Hey Mattela,
I recommend that you consult the electrician doing your work. Or, if you are knowledgeable on wiring and the safety precautions of doing the work, you can do the work yourself.

My recommendation is to run two twenty-amp circuits. Put half of your outlets on one and the other half on the other. If you are doing this yourself, don’t forget to use 12/2 wires. For safety, never attempt a do-it-your-self electrical job without the proper knowledge of wiring methods and safety precautions.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Not Enough Circuits (Question)

2010-05-10T06:41:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

We just moved into a larger house with a workshop area. It is large enough for my tools, but it only has a 15-amp lighting circuit and no outlets. I am upgrading the electrical service to run my power tools.

I have a table saw, a bench grinder, a vacuum cleaner, a table sander, and a drill press. Between my son and me, we may run two of these tools at a time and I want the circuits to be adequate for this, without tripping breakers. I need to install six receptacles, but I need to know how many circuits to put them on and what amp breakers to use?

Can you help me?

Mattela

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Black Staining on the Roof (Answer)

2010-05-07T06:35:00.000-07:00

Hey Tony,

The black staining is caused by the growth of algae and fungus spores that land on your roof. Trees do not have to be nearby for these air-born menaces to set up camp on your roof. All they need to grow is the nutrients from both the dirt on your roof and the limestone granules on the shingles. Heat and moisture on your roof will help them turn your whole roof black.

Roof shingles come in a wide variety of quality as indicated by the prices. The higher quality shingles have treatment to prevent algae and fungus growth. This treatment involves adding varying amounts of copper and zinc granules, and petroleum distillates on the shingles. Cleaning and controlling algae and fungus growth can add to the life of your roof.

If you choose to clean the roof yourself, be careful of products that are just bleach or chlorine. This type of product can leave your roof streaked and can also dry out the singles and cause premature cracking and a shorter shingle life. Some of these products also will kill grass and shrubbery. Read product labels carefully and follow the application directions. Most of all, be careful working on the roof, because you can cause damage to yourself and the roof.

Another alternative is to call a qualified roof cleaning company. You still need to ask if the products they use will cause streaking or grass and shrub damage. Roof cleaning companies can also provide preventative maintenance services that can prevent future algae and fungus growth.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Black Staining on the Roof (Question)

2010-05-06T06:33:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

We live in a twenty-year-old ranch, with a two-year-old roof. We had the new roof done in a light colored shingle.

Now we have noticed black staining starting near the peak and running towards the edge. Our house faces south, but the stains are on both sides of the roof. We are not close to trees, so we cannot figure out what is causing these stains.

Can you tell us what these stains are and how to get rid of them?

Tony

Thanks for your question.

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR HOME

2010-04-20T05:49:00.000-07:00

Retaining the services of a professional home inspector to inspect your potential purchase will save you money at the closing table. Identifying defects and pointing out costly repairs will give you bargaining leverage as well as save you from costly, and untimely repairs. You would not like to find out two months after you moved into your dream house that it was going to take two or three thousand dollars to repair your heating system.
Understanding your home enough to know when routine maintenance needs to be done will save you from untimely and costly repairs, not to mention protect your investment.
Understanding your home will also help you as a seller. If you are prepared for a home inspection before you have a potential buyer send out his/hers home inspector, you will find out this, too, will save you time and money at closing.
The following inspection outline is aimed at providing you, the homeowner with an introduction to the basic knowledge of what a home inspection consists. This outline is not intended to accomplish a complete or thorough inspection of your home, but to give you the basic knowledge to investigate your home from a technical viewpoint.

I hope this exercise will help you understand and prepare for a home inspection, as well as gain the understanding of residential care and maintenance.

FOUNDATIONS and BASEMENTS

1- Check for signs of insect infestation
2- Check grading to assure water will drain away from the foundation
3- Check basement or crawl space for dampness following wet weather
4- Check foundation walls for cracks (horizontal or vertical)

EXRERIOR WALLS

1- Check masonry for cracks and missing mortar
2- Check wood siding for decay and paint failure
3- Check vinyl or aluminum siding for loose or missing pieces
4- Check fascias and soffits for paint failure

ROOF

1- From the ground, check for damaged or missing shingles
2- Check for damaged flashing
3- Check gutters for damage and make sure they are attached properly
4- Check downspouts to make sure that they are attached and running water away from the foundation
5- Check vent louvres for bird nests or other obstructions
6- Check for chimney caps

SITE

1- Check to make sure window wells and storm drains are free of debris
2- Check for drips at outside hose bibs
3- Check driveways and sidewalks for cracks and settling
4- Check for any wood surfaces that are in contact with the soil
5- Check for tree limbs on the power lines that enter the house

DOORS and WINDOWS

1- Check for damaged screens and broken glass
2- Check caulking at doors and windows
3- Check doors and windows for operable latches
4- Check auto-reverse on electric garage door openers

INTERIOR SURFACES

1- Check for cracks in walls and ceilings
2- Check for water stains on walls and ceilings

PLUMBING SYSTEMS

1- Check for any leaking handles or faucets
2- Check drains that drain slow
3- Check for leaks under sinks
4- Check shower diverter
5- Check water heater for leaks and rust

HEATING and COOLING

1- Clean or change furnace filter
2- Remove clutter from around the furnace
3- Check the outside AC unit to make sure the area around it is free of bushes or other obstructions

ELECTRICAL

1- Check for missing or broken switch or receptacle covers
2- Check for covers on all junction boxes
3- Check for GFCI receptacles in bathrooms, kitchens, and out side receptacles

4- Locate the main service panel and remove any obstructions

We encourage you to care for your home and respect the initiative of do-it-yourselfers. We do not advocate that maintenance be performed by anyone who is not capable and comfortable doing so. If you are unsure of your ability to perform needed maintenance on your home, seek the services of professionals.

Water Heater (Answer)

2010-03-25T05:15:00.000-07:00

Hey Ross,

Since you have the option of going with Gas, I would suggest having it professionally hooked up to your gas line.

Natural Gas is the most efficient amongst all of the heating sources available in today’s market. With Heating Oil, running a close second and LP Gas running even a closer third.

Natural Gas is most efficient because it has a quicker recovery time. That means, the heating time is much shorter to heat the same amount of water versus electricity. And Natural gas is more efficient than heating oil.

Prices do vary based on your location.

As far as a recommended size, I suggest a minimum of a 40-gallon water heater. This should suffice for a family of three. Choose the high efficiency model and since you are going from electric to gas now, I recommend the high efficiency model that has a power venting system. This system will allow you to vent the gas vapors directly out side of the house, without making holes in your roof and using metal chimneys.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Water Heater (Question)

2010-03-24T05:13:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

My water heater is starting to leak, and has finally made me look at the stores to purchase another one. With it leaking and not working as best as it can, I actually have the time to do research and make the best decision. So, the ultimate question is, should I buy a water heater that runs on electric or gas? I do have a gas line that goes into the house, so I am flexible on my options. I have a family of three, and we do a moderate amount of use of the dishwasher, showering and laundry.

Ross

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

New Dishwasher (Answer)

2010-03-23T05:11:00.000-07:00

Hey Holly,

Congratulations on your new home. This will be a kitchen of your dreams. The stainless steel tub dishwashers are not just for looks, but a higher quality unit with some substantial benefits. Although the stainless steel tub dishwashers are more expensive, these units have a longer life expectancy, they are usually whisper quiet compared to the plastic tub models.

With the stainless steel tub units, they are able to achieve the same heat, and even hotter, but using a much lower wattage element, therefore saving money on your electricity bill over a period of time. The higher heat will also sanitize your dishes even more.

Good luck with your new home.

Al

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

New Dishwasher (Question)

2010-03-22T05:07:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

I am considering buying a stainless steel tub dishwasher for my house.
We are having a new house built, and we are picking out appliance and considering the purchase of a stainless steel tub dishwasher. Although they are more expensive than the standard plastic tub models, are they more efficient, just for looks, or just a waste of money?

Holly

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Time for a check-up

2010-03-02T05:18:00.000-08:00

This is a good time to give your house a spring check-up. With Old Man Winter gone, it is a good time to see what kind of damage he left behind. It is also time to prepare the house for the next season.
With the cooling season on the way, it is a good time to have the air conditioning serviced. If you are planning to have the ducts cleaned, now is the time to have it done.

With regard to cooling, let me remind you of the importance of good attic ventilation and proper insulation. This is important in keeping the cooling cost to a minimum.
If you are going to cool your house without air conditioning, here are some tips:

 Inspect window and door screens
 Make sure you have window covering for the south and west facing windows
 Clean and service fans

In warm weather open all windows when the sun sets, then close them at sunrise. Curtains or some type of window covering on the south and west facing windows will help keep the heat of the sun out.

Now is also the time to evaluate your house for maintenance and repairs. Hear is a list of things to check:

 Check the exterior cladding
 If wood cladding- check for warping, loose pieces, also peeling or blistering paint
 If brick cladding- check for cracks, mortar missing between bricks, and spalting bricks (faces popping off brick)
 Check foundation for moisture and movement
 Check landscaping around the foundation for proper grading (no low spots)
 Inspect porches and decks
 Check the condition of your chimney cap
 Clean your gutters
 Check the gutters and downspouts to see if they are attached securely, and in working order
 Inspect roof system and roof flashing

Inspecting the roof system is important. If your roof is in excess of fifteen years old and looks questionable to you, it may be wise to have it inspected by a professional.
Winter conditions can cause the shingles to claw (curl under on the bottom corners). This is also a sign of aging. Also another likely product of winter, is broken or missing shingles.
If your attic is not well vented and insulated, you will likely find the shingles curling up on the corners. This condition is important to monitor because it makes the shingles highly susceptible to wind damage.

Your local Home Inspector can provide you with a list of maintenance items that your home needs. Taking care of these maintenance items will save you money on more expensive repairs down the road.

Lady Bugs (Answer)

2009-11-25T01:28:00.000-08:00

Hey Allen,
Don’t worry the ladybug (Asian lady beetle) will not feed or damage anything in your home. They are really only nuisances more than a pest. They cannot sting or harm you, and they will not breed indoors. It is normal to see a lot of them in late fall, because they are getting ready to hibernate. Once indoors they will hibernate until early spring. The best way to control them is with a vacuum cleaner.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Lady Bugs (Question)

2009-11-24T01:25:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

We live in an area that has wooded lots all around and we have some pest problems. This year we have had a late fall and along with that a lot of ladybugs. We have noticed them on the exterior walls, but recently they have invaded the interior of our home. What kind of damage can they do, or have they done to my house? The next question is what do I have to do to get rid of them?

Thanks in advance for your help

Allen

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Cold air Coming in from the Window Air-Conditioner (Answer)

2009-11-23T01:14:00.000-08:00

Hey Ed,

If you are going to leave the air-conditioner units installed, you will need to cover them to keep out the cold. You can buy fitted covers for most models of window air-conditioners, if you prefer. But the inexpensive way works great, and is easy to do.
To cover these units the inexpensive way, you will need to buy some large plastic leaf bags, and some duct tape. Take one of the leaf bags and pull it over the air-conditioner, make sure it is pulled up tight. After the bag is on tight, run the duct tape around the bag and the air-conditioner close to the window. Now cut off the excess end of the bag. Take another bag and pull it tight over the unit, this time you can cut off the excess bag, but leave about three inches of the bag. Fold the left over end so you can tape it to the face of the opening. To make this tape job last trough the winter, you can spray it with some cheep hair spray.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Cold air Coming in from the Window Air-Conditioner (Question)

2009-11-20T01:08:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

We live in a sixteen hundred square-foot brick ranch that we bought last summer. The house has hot water heat, so there are no ducts to have central air-conditioning installed. The house is cooled with two window air-conditioners and ceiling fans, this does a great job. The problem is since it has been getting colder, we feel a lot of cold air coming in from the air-conditioner. We would take them out for the winter, but they are bolted in and insulated very well. We want to leave them installed, but we want to stop the cold air.
Can you help us with an inexpensive cure?

Thanks

Ed

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Repairing Stucco (Answer)

2009-11-19T01:56:00.000-08:00

Hey Decon,
This job will require a few days that does not get below forty degrees and no hard rainfall. You will need to make a trip to the hardware store to get these items:
Material and Tool List
 Latex caulk
 Caulking gun
 Concrete bonding agent (acryl sixty)
 Whitewash brush (using scissors, cut bristles leaving only about two inches of bristles)
 Small paintbrush
 Square trowel (margin trowel)
 Stucco patching compound
 Duct tape
 Plastic garbage bag
 Small bag of dry sand
Use the latex caulk on the cracks that are one-quarter inch or less in width. Fill in the cracks with the caulk and use the trowel to cut off the excess caulk. While the caulk is still wet, apply some of the dry sand, the next day brush off the excess sand.
For larger cracks you will need to prepare the cracks by brushing off the loose plaster, and painting the crack with bonding agent. Dampen the crack with water, and fill in the cracks with stucco patching compound, make sure to mix the compound fairly stiff. After the compound becomes dry to the touch, brush it with the whitewash brush until it blends with its surroundings. To cure the patch, you will need to lightly mist the patch with water, then cut a piece of the garbage bag large enough to cover the repair. Use the duct tape to secure the garbage bag over the repair, and leave it on for four days. If the area is deeper than three eights of an inch, you will need to use the same techniques, but only fill the area about half the depth, let it set for a day, then finish it just like the other repairs.

I hope this helps, good luck with your “Stucco Jewel”.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Repairing Stucco (Question)

2009-11-18T01:48:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,
We bought our ninety-year-old home this year, and have been very happy with it. We want to repair and paint the exterior of this massive stucco jewel. The stucco is in pretty good condition, but there are some cracks and some holes and spots of missing stucco. The finish on the stucco is a brushed look and is also going to get painted. We were told that the hardest things about repairing stucco, is matching smooth textures and the color. With this in mind we feel that we can do the patchwork ourselves.

We could use any helpful hints you can give us.

Thanks

Decon

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Water Heater (Answer)

2009-11-17T01:13:00.000-08:00

Hey Darnell,

It sounds like you have a bad sacrificial anode in the water heater. The sacrificial anode is a metal rod usually magnesium or aluminum. This rod is screwed into the top of the water heater, and its job is to help prevent corrosion of the metal tank. This rod sacrifices it self, to be eaten away from electrolysis instead of the metal of the tank. Once the anode is gone the tank itself begins to corrode. Replacing the anode when needed will prolong the life of the tank.
With the noise and the weird greenish substance you described, I believe you have an aluminum anode rod. If your water has a high pH level, it will cause the aluminum anode rod to corrode slow and produce aluminum hydroxide (weird greenish substance). The aluminum hydroxide falls to the bottom of the heater, trapping heat, and this is what makes your water heater sound like a “coffee percolator”.

The best way to find out if your anode is aluminum is to look at the exposed anode rod nut located on the top of the water heater. If the top of the nut is smooth, that indicates the anode is aluminum. If the top of the nut has a large bump on it, it is a magnesium anode.

If you find out that the anode is aluminum, and the water heater is in good condition except for the noise and the weird greenish substance. You may consider having the water heater flushed out and replacing the aluminum anode rod with a magnesium anode rod.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Water Heater (Question)

2009-11-16T01:10:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,
We bought our thirty-year-old house two years ago, and have been very happy with it. We have painted and done some small repairs. But now I think our water heater is on its last leg. It will make noises like a coffee percolator; at times it is very loud. We have not noticed any problem with having enough hot water, but we have noticed a thick greenish substance coming out of the hot water faucet. I don’t know if the noise and the weird greenish substance have anything to do with each other, but they both started at the same time. We have always had our water heater either stop supplying hot water or leaking, but this noise thing is a new one for us.

Is it time for a new heater?

Thanks,

Darnell

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Sweating Toilet (Answer)

2009-11-13T01:07:00.000-08:00

Hey Paula,

Sometimes a leaking flapper valve can cause this buy not holding water tightly in the bowl. If the flapper valve leaks you will hear the toilet run and shut off, even when it has not been used. This will cause cold water to keep coming in and never giving it a chance to warm up, this can cause excessive condensation.
To check if the flapper valve is leaking;
 Turn off the water supply to the toilet, before you go to bed. The shut-off valve is on the right side of the toilet near the floor.
 Take the top off of the tank and mark the water level with a marker.
 The next morning check the water level.
 If the water level has not dropped, the flapper is good.
 If the water level has dropped, the flapper is bad, and needs to be replaced.
 Turn the supply back on.

If the flapper is leaking, then replacing it should cure your problem. If the flapper is not leaking, you may want to get a toilet tank insulation kit. You can get this kit at your local hardware store for fewer than fifteen dollars. This insulates the tank and cuts down on the accumulation of condensation.
If all else fails, there is one other method. You can consult a plumber on installing a hot water mixer valve. This valve adds hot water to the toilet’s water supply. With warm water and a warm toilet tank, you will not have condensation.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Sweating Toilet (Question)

2009-11-12T01:05:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

I live in a two-story four bedroom three and a half-bath-house. I moved in about five months ago and noticed that the up-stairs toilet had a lot of condensation under the tank. Now it is worse than it was, the floor gets wet some times. I have replaced the supply line and there are no leaks, it is condensation.
Is there something I can do to slow the condensation down?

Thanks

Paula

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Oil Stained Driveway (Answer)

2009-11-11T01:56:00.000-08:00

Hey Tom,

The best solution for removing fresh oil is a big bag of the cheapest kitty litter you can find. Just put a few large handfuls on the oil spill, and let it soak for a day or two, and sweep it up. This works great on fresh oil spills or under leaky cars.

To clean the old stains, you will need a pressure washer and some concrete driveway cleaner. You can get this cleaner at any hardware store. A little trick I found to work good, is the day before I am going to clean the driveway, I put some of the cleaner (un-mixed) on the bad spots. After this sets over night you are ready to apply the cleaner as to the directions, and pressure all those years of stains.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Oil Stained Driveway (Question)

2009-11-10T01:53:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

I have a large concrete driveway and three teen-age drivers with older cars. That in it self plays a big roll in supplying my driveway with fresh oil, not to mention my oldest son that works on his leaky car in the driveway.
Is there an easy to remove this fresh oil, and is there anything I can do to remove the old stains?

Thanks

Tony

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Older House Wiring (Answer)

2009-11-09T01:42:00.000-08:00

Hey Norton,

Older Romex was a two-wire system, meaning the Romex consisted of only two wires a hot and a neutral, but not a ground. The term open ground, just means that there is not a ground wire present. A hot and a neutral is all it takes to make the lights and the receptacles work. In the early sixties the electrical industry converted to Romex with a third wire, this wire was not intended to make the lights or receptacles work better, but to increase shock safety, by protecting equipment that is plugged in to the circuit against a ground fault. Electricity tries to find it’s way to ground, when it finds it’s way to the ground, that is called a ground fault, that’s how you get shocked. The electricity is using you to travel to the ground. The ground wire is just making an easer path for stray electricity to find ground instead of using you.
With a two-wire system (open ground system) like yours, replacing old receptacles in the bathrooms, kitchen, exterior, garage, and basement with GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) receptacles will increase safety. GFCI protection is a system that shuts off the power if it senses a ground fault, that means the electricity is passing thought you to the ground. The GFCI’s are not designed to protect equipment, but to protect you against electrocution.
Consult an Electrician about the best way to add the GFCI protection in your specific situation.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Older House Wiring (Question)

2009-11-06T01:39:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

We recently purchased an older home that was built in the fifties. We had a home inspection on the house prior to the purchase, and the report indicated that the home’s wiring is “Functional but outdated by today’s safety standards”. The report further states that the house wiring is “older ungrounded romex and that a represented number of receptacles were tested and were found to be open ground”.
Can you explain what this means and how can I increase the safety factor?

Thanks,

Norton

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Gas Water Heater (Answer)

2009-11-05T01:37:00.000-08:00

Hey Melisia,

In this case you are going to need to have a professional plumber correct this installation. Gas water heaters are require to have a short piece of metallic pipe or appliance connector at least six inches long, above the flue piping. This transition piece is required to prevent damage to the CPVC from excessive heat build-up in the flue. In some areas CPVC can be installed directly onto electric water heaters with special transition fittings, but gas water heaters always required the metallic connectors. A licensed plumber will consult local code requirements prior to installation, and in most cases a local permit is required.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Gas Water Heater (Question)

2009-11-04T01:33:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

I live in an older home that thought out the years has had many repairs and updates, not to mention many different people working on it. Recently we had our water heater go out and I think I hired the wrong person to replace it. We have a gas water heater with a metal flue pipe coming out of the top of the water heater then turning and going to the chimney. My concern is when the water heater was replaced, the installer used a plastic pipe called CPVC. This plastic pipe runs with in an inch of the flue pipe, and the flue pipe gets hot. I tried to call the installer, but his phone is disconnected and it appears he has vanished.
Do I need to call some one else, or is this not a problem?

Melisia

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Cracks in My Ceiling (Answer)

2009-11-03T01:26:00.000-08:00

Hey Dawn,

From your description of the problem, what you have is a typical case of Truss Uplift. This is not the first time I have had this question. To explain this, I will have to give you a brief explanation of your roof structure.
To start your roof structure is a truss type. To put this simply, the frame for your roof and the frame for your ceiling are all connected, this makes a truss. These trusses are spaced about sixteen to twenty-four inches apart, to span the length of your house. The top wood of the truss is called the upper cord, to that your roof sheathing and shingles are attached. The wood that runs along the bottom is called the lower cord, to that your ceiling is attached.

Trusses structurally span the entire width of the house, there for they require no load-bearing wall in the center. The center wall that divides your rooms is a non-load bearing wall, the lower cords of the trusses simply pass over the wall.

Now getting back to your problem “truss uplift”. This type of cracking or separation wile being unattractive it does not usually indicate a structural problem.

Since the trusses are all one unit connected together to form the ceiling and the roof structure, as the parts cure and shrink all parts of the truss is affected. The wood starts drying and shrinking the attachments that hold the top cord to the bottom cord, causing the bottom cord to crown or raise up in the middle. This causes the ceiling to raise and lift from the center wall, thus causing the cracks between the wall and the ceiling.

In your case, since the house is three years old, the moisture content of the truss members is at a stable level, and will not get worse.

Cosmetic repair of the cracks should take of this problem. In most cases a paintable calk and some paint is an easy and inexpensive cure.

While major and persistent cracking may indicate structural problems, in your case the cracking is a common and normal occurrence in new houses. With new construction it is likely to have slight settling and shrinkage of building materials, which will cause some slight cracking in the corners of your drywall.

Thanks for your question.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Cracks in My Ceiling (Question)

2009-11-02T01:30:00.000-08:00

Hey Al,

Recently my husband and I purchased a three-year-old ranch house. The house is beautiful and very obviously well maintained. However we have noticed a crack in the ceiling of the living room at the corner of the wall that separates the living room from the family room. On the other side of this wall is the family room, where there is a crack in the ceiling against the same wall. The cracks are not very wide, but they do run almost the entire length of this center wall, on both sides.
Our concern is this wall runs long ways down the center of our house, does this mean that our house is settling? Is our house going to fall down? Is this a major structural problem? What can we do?

See Ya,

Dawn

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Furnace Filter (Answer)

2009-10-26T01:39:00.000-07:00

Hey Ted,

Changing or cleaning the furnace filter is a good step to prolong the life of your furnace and air-conditioner. Since the same duct work and circulating fan is used for heating and cooling system, it is important to change the filter in the winter months and summer months.
It is important to get the correct size of filter for your furnace. You can get the size of the filter off of the old filter. But when it comes to picking a filter you have a lot of choices depending on how much you want to spend. Your Dad used the least inexpensive disposable fiberglass filters. These filters are good to protect your furnace, but they only block out the large dust and dirt particles, and let the smaller particles like mold and pollen pass through.
A reusable static charged filter (electrostatic filter) is slightly more effective and slightly more expensive than the disposable fiberglass filter. This is a very popular filter, but the down side is it has to be cleaned instead of just throwing it away like the disposable fiberglass filters. By the way, I think this is the type of filter you found in your furnace.
Pleated disposable filters can trap a lot more of the allergens like mold and pollen, but they are slightly more expensive than the reusable static charged filter.
If allergies are not a problem, I would recommend a disposable fiberglass filter, or an electrostatic filter.
There are filters on the market that are very efficient in reducing mold and pollen, but they can also restrict airflow and cause problems with some heating and air-condition equipment. If you are considering a high efficiency filter you should consult your heating and air-conditioning service person to make sure the filter will work with your system.

Thanks for the great question.

Al

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

Furnace Filter (Question)

2009-10-23T01:34:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

I recently purchased my first home, it is a thirty-year-old house in good condition and well maintained. My Dad has given me a list of preventive maintenance items, and one of the things on the list is keeping my furnace filter changed.
I went to change the filter in my furnace, and when I pulled it
out I saw that it wasn't like the filters my Dad had, it was this wire mesh
filter. I grew up watching my Dad change those old filters that look like insulation.
What kind of filter do I have? And are there special filters I need for this furnace?

Thanks

Ted

The answer will be posted tomorrow.

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

Doorbell Transformer (Answer)

2009-10-22T01:34:00.000-07:00

Hey Amanda,

In residential 120 volt wiring the black is the hot and the white is the neutral. Look closely at the connection screws on the transformer, one will be silver in color and one will be brass. So with 120 volt residential wiring remember “black on brass”. The black wire is the hot wire and the brass screw is the hot connection. The white wire is the neutral and it goes to the silver screw. The “black on brass” rule applies to all household wiring. When you mount the transformer you can mount it to the outside of the main panel box or on a wall, but never mount it inside the panel box. Transformers will get warm and heat is not something you want on the inside of a panel. Remember always turn the power off at the main electrical box before attempting any wiring.

Thanks for the question.

Send Questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Doorbell Transformer (Question)

2009-10-21T01:29:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

I have owned my own house for the past nine years and I have become very handy with repairs, but I still have problems with electrical repairs. Recently my doorbell quit working because of a bad transformer. I replaced the transformer and it worked for about ten minutes before it got real hot and quit. I feel I did not wire it correctly, so before I cook another transformer I would like to know if there is a coded way to know which wire (black or white) goes onto which screw on the transformer?

Help

Amanda

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Send Questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Baby Proof (Answer)

2009-10-20T01:28:00.000-07:00

Hey Andy,

Childproofing your home is a very important step for your child’s safety. Hazards in the home contribute to the injury or death of about 2 million children a year. Fortunately many of these incidents can be avoided by informed parents and using some of the simple child safety devices on the market today.

Here are some child safety devices that can help get you started on making you home as safe as possible for your young children:

 Use Safety Gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas.
 Use Safety Latches and Locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, and bathrooms.
 Use Door Knob Covers and Door Locks to prevent passage to possible danger.
 Use Smoke Detectors, and Carbon Monoxide Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms.
 Use Window Guards and Safety Netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks, and landings.
 Use Corner and Edge Bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges.
 Use Outlet Safety Covers and Outlet Plates.

For more information on child safety in your home go to; www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/grand/12steps/12steps.html

Thanks for your questions.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

Baby Proof (Question)

2009-10-19T01:25:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,

I am a brand new Dad and while I am nervous about everything that the
little guy does, I was wondering if you have any tips on easy things I can
do to Baby proof my home.

Thanks

Andy

I will post the answer tomorrow.

Please send questions to agarrett54@hotmail.com Please put "Hey Al" in the subject box.

HYDO-WHAT? (Answer)

2009-09-25T06:32:00.000-07:00

Hello Telly,

The type of heating system is a valid concern when considering an older house. A considerable number of outdated heating systems are still in use, such as convection hot water and gravity hot air systems. These heating systems are so outdated that an upgrade should be considered. These systems are very inefficient and very costly to operate.
The hydronic system consists of a boiler to heat water, usually to between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit, and pumps to circulate the hot water through pipes in the building. This heated water warms radiators placed in all the rooms in the house. Many people prefer (hydronic) hot water heat because the radiators are small, the system is typically quiet, and it can be easily divided into multiple zones. Also this type of hot water heat is very efficient and dependable, thus making steam heat obsolete in homes and smaller buildings.
Before you make a purchase, you should have the whole house and the heating system inspected by a professional.

Thanks for the question

Al

Please send your questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

HYDO-WHAT? (Question)

2009-09-24T05:43:00.000-07:00

Hello Al,

I have been house hunting in upstate New York, and I have found several older houses in the paper that interest me. I really want an older house, but one of my concerns with older houses is the heating system.
I see the types of heating described in the ads, such as steam, convection hot water, gravity hot air, and hydronic. The one house I am most interested in is said to have hydronic heating. Can you tell me if that is good or bad? Are there certain heating systems I need to stay away from?

Thanks

Telly

Answer will post tomorrow.

Should I be present for my home inspection (Answer)

2009-09-23T05:24:00.000-07:00

Hi Steve,

Attending the inspection can be very helpful to the new homeowner. This is a great opportunity to learn more about the house you are considering buying. I do recommend looking at the house separately from the inspector, and writing down your questions and concerns. When the inspector is finished with the inspection, he or she will discuss their findings with you. This is a good opportunity to ask the questions on the list. You can get a good idea of the true condition of the house this way, without distracting the inspector. You would not want them to miss something important on the inspection. Being there for the whole inspection is not that important, but having the on-site review with the inspector is very important.
Remember the on-site review is important for your overall understanding of your purchase, but it is only a summary. The written report will contain the whole picture. If you have questions on the written report, you need to call your inspector. They keep a file of everything that pertains to the inspection. So if you have any questions about the report, they will be able to give you all the details.

Please send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

Should I be present for my home inspection (Question)

2009-09-22T05:19:00.000-07:00

I am buying my third house, but this is the first one to have a home inspection. I now realize the importance of a home inspection after wishing I had one on the last nightmare. I have done my homework on what is covered in a home inspection, and how many headaches it can save me to have an expert inspect the house prior to purchasing it.
My question, is should I be present at the inspection?

Thanks

Steve

See the answer tomorrow.

NEW DECK (Answer)

2009-09-21T06:41:00.000-07:00

Good day to you Eian,

The most common mistake with redwood decks is not sealing them with water repellent. If wood is left unsealed, it will decay, darken, and eventually rot. The best way to preserve your redwood is to seal all pieces of decking materials before construction. Also when choosing a sealer, you may consider one with a mildew-cide additive to preserve the color of your wood. If you like the weathered look of redwood, you can still seal it. Then use a stain with a bleaching agent to achieve a weathered look. Your local paint store can help you decide the product that most fits your needs. Water repellent or sealer can be applied with a roller, brush, or spray. When applying stain use a brush only. To help preserve your deck, I recommend that you reapply the sealer every eighteen months to two years.
When getting bids from contractors it is important to put together a scope of work to be done. By having such a list for the contractors from which to bid, it is easier to compare prices, because all the contractors are bidding on the same things. You won’t have one bidding with sealer and one bidding without. Here are some things to include in a scope of work agreement:
 All wood to be sealed before construction of deck
 Brand and style specific of sealer and stains
 Number of coats of stain
 Type of hardware to be used
 A working set of plans

Thanks for the great question

Al

Questions can be sent to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

NEW DECK (Question)

2009-09-18T06:37:00.000-07:00

Good day Al,

We bought our dream home on the coast three years ago. We now have spent the last three years completely renovating and restoring our dream house. Now that we have all the necessary work completed, we want to add some amity, like a custom redwood deck.
We have the deck plans drawn and now we are preparing to get bids from contractors.
We have talked to some contractors on redwood decks, and some said to seal the deck with water repellent, and some said that redwood does not need to be sealed. The prices are very different, depending on to whom we talked.
Is there anything else of which we need to be aware as we get prices, and should we seal the redwood? If so, why?

Thanks Eian

See post tomorrow for the answer.

Winter Pool (Answer)

2009-09-17T06:33:00.000-07:00

Hi Frank,

Calling a pool company is certainly one option, but if you have time to do it yourself, it’s not too hard. It will also save you some money.

Based on what you told me, I think these basic instructions will be what you need:

 Vacuum all debris from your pool.
 Remove all accessories and ladders.
 Let the filter run until pool water runs clear.
 Check chlorine level, it should be 3 ppm and the Ph should be 7.5.
 Add the winterizing chemicals (follow the directions of the chemicals you purchase).
 Bring water level to just below the skimmer opening.
 Remove skimmer weir door and basket.
 Install skimmer winter cover plate and put the cap back on.
 Tie an air pillow in the center of the pool (this will help hold up the cover).
 Install winter cover (secure cover with tie-downs or cables or what ever method your pool uses).
 If you are in a windy area, you can add a couple of inches of water to the top of the pool cover.
 Disconnect pump and filter, drain, and store indoors (if sand filter, remove the top valve, drain and cover).
 Shut off gas to water heater (or shut off electric if electric heater)
 Drain water from heater, and cover.
If your pool is equipped with a bottom drain, it must be disconnected at the valve and elevated above the water level. Then it needs to be plugged with a cap that has an air valve fitting, so you can pump air into the pipe to force out water.
If the pool has a light, the bulb should be removed and stored.

I hope this will help you.

Thanks for the Question

Al

Questions can be sent to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

WINTER WITH A POOL (Question)

2009-09-16T06:28:00.000-07:00

Hi Al,

I purchased a house early this summer, and it came with an above-ground pool. This pool has a deck all the way around it, and a heater as well. The previous owner said they used the pool to the end of September every year, before they winterized it. I have never had a pool before and I am not sure I understand what is involved in winterizing my pool.
Is this something I can do myself, or do I need to have a pool company do it?
Can you give me an idea of what this entails?

Frank E.

Answer will be posted tomorrow.

Damp Crawl (Answer)

2009-09-15T05:57:00.000-07:00

Hey
Debbie,

It sounds like you have a good start on fixing your problem. Yes, the vapor barrier should cover the floor completely. Also, the seams should overlap and be taped to seal them.
Condensation builds up as a result of temperature differences, so if the crawl space temperature stays close to the temperature outside, the condensation problems decline. Here is a list of things to consider:
 Make sure you have good cross ventilation in the crawlspace.
 Make sure that the vapor barrier is sealed everywhere.
 Make sure that the insulation under your floor is adequate and in place.
 All exposed ductwork and plumbing lines should be insulated.

In the very worst case, to solve the problem, you may have to install a dehumidifier.
There are a number of fungus killers on the market that would help. I recommend that you achieve good ventilation in the crawlspace first, and then see how bad the fungus is at that point. In many cases the ventilation alone will cure the fungus problem.

Hope this helps,

Al

You can send your questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

DAMP CRAWL (Question)

2009-09-14T05:43:00.000-07:00

Hey Al,
I have a house that is built on a crawl space, it has a severe condensation problem. We were told by a Home Inspector to install a vapor barrier in the crawl space under our house. We have done this; but the condensation is worse. It is coming off our waterlines and heat pump vents. Should we have installed the vapor barrier completely against the walls or left a space between the walls and the plastic barrier?
Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of the fungi that is on the joists?

Thank you for your help.

Debbie

See answer posted tomorrow.

Fall Checklist Continued

2009-09-11T07:09:00.000-07:00

5. Investigate the Plumbing in Your Home
• Put away garden hose and shut off hose bibs
• Insulate water supply lines and water heater
• Fix slow drip leaks and leaky valves
• Install temperature and pressure valves
• Tighten any loose fixture attachments

6. Take Time to Observe the HVAC
• Cover your air conditioner
• Tightly seal all ductwork seams with foil tape
• Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors or check for battery life
• Clean flues from the furnace, water heater, and fireplace
• Have a heating contractor inspect and ready your heating system

The above suggestions may require professional assistance to ensure proper installation.

Fall Checklist Continued

2009-09-10T07:04:00.000-07:00

3. Check for Problems on Your Roof
• Clean gutters and downspouts and make sure they are securely attached
• Check for missing or cracked shingles
• Look for signs of a leaking roof
• Observe chimney and flu stack for visible damage
• Be sure all bath, kitchen, and dryer vents go entirely outside of your home, not just into the attic.

4. Look Over Any Electrical Wiring
• Check outdoor recepts to make sure they are water tight
• Change or install bulbs in any outdoor light sockets
• Upgrade faulty wiring
• Set up GFCI recepts by sinks, lavatories, garage and outdoor receptacles
• Contact an electrician if you constantly blow fuses or trip circuit breakers

FALL TUNE UP CHECKLIST

2009-09-09T06:52:00.000-07:00

A mechanic’s job is to maintain the condition of our cars, whether it may be changing the oil, rotating the tires, or checking the brakes. Similarly, homeowners must take care of their homes, providing service whenever necessary.

Here are some tips and advice on making your home safer and more energy efficient for when the cold weather sets in.

1. Examine Your Home’s Foundation
• Examine crawlspace for standing water, mold, or fungus
• Install vapor barrier for crawlspace
• Check for cracks in basement walls
• Identify basement leaks
• Check for proper insulation in basement and crawlspace

2. Inspect the Framing and Exterior
• Reseal brickwork every five to eight years
• Caulk around windows, doors, utility line entrances, and vents
• Look for signs of insect activity, especially in crawlspace framing and around floor-framing perimeter
• Secure any loose sections of vinyl or aluminum siding and replace damaged sections when appropriate
• If necessary, retrofit insulation into sidewalls and attic floors

HAVE YOUR HOME INSPECTED BEFORE YOUR ONE YEAR WARRANTY EXPIRES

2009-09-08T06:42:00.000-07:00

Happy one year birthday to your beautiful newly purchased home. But buyer beware: make sure the systems in your home are in good working order before your one year warranty expires. As the one-year warranty draws near its expiration date, this is a crucial time to have a home inspection in order to avoid paying large bills on maintenance repairs and fixtures.

Greg Haskett, vice president of The Home Team Inspection Service suggests, “A homeowner should review their warranty a couple of months before it expires and familiarize themselves with the policy, then order an inspection to make sure all of the systems are functional."

Following are several of the specific potential problems that should be professionally inspected prior to the warranty expiration:

• Furnace-Evaluate and verify its working order and any maintenance issues.
• Roof-Inspect for any damaged shingles or leaks.
• Attic-Inspect for signs of water damage due to faulty flashing or leaky roof.
• Potential Leaks-Plumbing, roof damage, and other areas in need for repair could be responsible for leaking water into the home.
• Appliances-Test for normal working condition.
• Foundation-Check for any cracks or leaks in a faulty foundation that could lead to massive damages for the home.

It is strongly recommended that within eight to ten months of the purchase you have a home inspection, which will leave time for the builder to fix and most importantly, compensate for any necessary repairs before the warranty ends.

Through the expertise of a comprehensive and professional inspection, any minor or major repairs in newly built homes can be detected while still under the one-year warranty, saving potentially large expenses later.

Get the Edge

2009-08-06T07:40:00.000-07:00

If you are planning to sell your house in today’s market it is even more important to have a pre-listing inspection on your home by a professional home inspector. This can give you the edge you need over other houses on the market. For more information see my earlier post (The Tale of Two Houses). In addition to a pre-listing inspection you want your home looking its best. It is also important to invest your money on improvements that will give you the most value for resale. Kitchens and bathrooms are two of the most high-traffic rooms in our homes. Here are some tips on how to make these hard-working rooms look their absolute best and refreshed without breaking the bank.

A FEW SIMPLE IDEAS TO GIVE KITCHENS AND BATHROOMS A FACELIFT
Quick and Easy Fix-ups That Won’t Break the Bank

SPRUCE UP YOUR KITCHEN

· “SPLASH OF COLOR”: Painting is one of the most versatile decorating tools and adding a new color to the walls will do a lot to lighten and brighten. Yellows and reds can make your kitchen seem warm and cozy, while blues can create an atmosphere of cool sophistication. Lighter colors will make the room seem bigger while textures can add contrast and interest. But don't stop there! Repainting the cabinets can completely transform your look. An inexpensive way to freshen up dark cabinets is with a new coat of paint.

· “ADD SOME SPARKLE”: A new trend in painting is called "glazing," which you can do over a painted door. Take a can of glaze and have tint added. Use a brush to apply sparingly to achieve a streaked, antique look!

· “CONSIDER A FACELIFT”: Replacing dated hinges, handles and knobs with new, stylish hardware is an easy way to make cabinets more attractive. Just changing your cabinet knobs can add a touch of whimsy, a vintage look or a contemporary feel.

· “THROW ON A TILE”: Changing a countertop is a dramatic part of creating a new look. Ceramic tile is also a great do-it-yourself way to update worn-out counters. Peel-and-stick mirror tiles are available at most building stores, for an instant backsplash brightener. Ceramic subway tiles are yet another trendy look that's surprisingly easy to do, especially if you can adjust the design to avoid having to cut them.

TURN YOUR BATHROOM INTO A PERSONAL SPA

· “A SHOWER YOU DESERVE”: Tiled showers can be cold and dark once the curtain is drawn. Warm up the space with a combination light fixture/heat lamp. A lot of showers already have a light fixture, so this can be an easy change out. Change the showerhead or simply add an attachment to your shower wall for the ultimate spa experience! There are many options that offer multiple body sprays and massaging jets.

· “NO MORE CHILLY FEET”: Changing the ceramic floor tile is a common update, but ceramic tile floors can get chilly. To prevent cold feet add a radiant heating system before you install the tile. These ultra-thin electric heating systems are easily installed in cement under ceramic tile and stone floors.

· “TAP INTO NEW DESIGN”: Putting in a new faucet can give your bathroom sink a whole new look. Many new faucet styles are specially designed for do-it-yourself installation, using just basic tools, and there is a variety of styles to choose from that cost less than $100.

The above suggestions may require professional assistance to ensure proper installation.

Lost in Thin Air

2009-07-25T13:08:00.000-07:00

You may have read or heard that, for an "average" house, 20 to 30 percent of the energy used for heating and cooling is lost through the ductwork. Most of this loss is through small gaps in the joints of the ductwork of forced-air distribution systems. In a forced-air distribution system the duct runs do not merely pass the air blown into them by your furnace's air-handler, they are actually pressurized. Air not only rushes out these registers, it is forced through the hundreds of seams and gaps of the typical duct system. For this reason, it is the imperative of good installation practice to seal every joint and seam with a tape or adhesive caulk.

Don't use duct tape for this job!

The duct tape that has become a cultural icon-that grey, gummy stuff-is surely one of the twentieth century's all-purpose miracle remedies. I have appreciatively availed myself of the Johnny-on-the-Spot characteristics of duct tape to patch old jeans torn at a construction site, and to reinforce a sledge hammer handle that had started to split before the job was finished. Other fellas have taped it around their shoes to keep the soles from flappin', or held a rusty bumper on their pickup truck until they got around to buying some new bolts. Duct tape is great for stuff like this.

Now here comes the results of a high-tech study done by The Department of Energy at their Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. They taped up their system of test ducts with duct tape, clear tape, foil tape, mastics and injected aerosols. Then they pressurized their ducts with both hot and cold airflows. They also baked the ducts at temperatures from 140 to 187 degrees, simulating known attic conditions.

According to researcher Max Sherman of the Lab, "..of all the things we tested, only duct tape failed. It failed reliably and often quite catastrophically." It seems that heat degrades duct tape's glue, and then it falls off. Now, fellas in the construction trades have known this about duct tape for years. We're gonna have to call those guys at the lab and tell them what this stuff is really for. That bumper on my truck is still hangin' on!

"Wasted Vent"

2009-07-03T07:05:00.000-07:00

As a home inspector I have found my share of unusual house modifications, but after all the years I can’t say that I have seen it all. The creativity involved in do it yourself home modifications never ceases to amaze me. I have friends that are home inspectors all over the US,and Canada that send me pictures of unusual modifications all the time. In fact I just received an interesting picture of an unusual dryer exhaust hook up for a friend and fellow home inspector in New Orleans.

I guess that the Plumbing drain waste vent vents more than I originally knew. Somebody was thinking that the drain waste vent would make a good way to vent their dryer as you see in the picture Jerry sent.

If you have any unusual stories and/or pictures please post them to the comments in this blog.

Phase Out the Problems

2009-06-30T06:54:00.000-07:00

If you or anyone you know is building a house or planning to build a house, you need to read this article on "Phase Inspections".
Back in the day when a house was being built there was a general super on the job to monitor the construction. With residential construction becoming more competitive the expensive of having a super on every house is a thing of the past. Wile a phase inspection can not take the place of a stay-on -the-job super, it can eliminate problems before they are covered up from view.

Phase Inspections

When building a new home, it is a good idea to keep an eye on the progress, or the “phases” of the construction. This is done by monitoring the construction at certain major stages or “phases.” This type of inspection is important to monitor and maintain the quality control of the completed project.

Most quality home builders appreciate a second set of eyes to help with quality control. Most commercial builders have a project manager to assist with the building, but an extra set of eyes and a written report from an independent inspector can help the contractor assure a quality product.

Phase inspections are generally a series of three assessments. However, the more in-progress inspections will help prevent costly mistakes.

The following is an example of the basic three-phase inspection:

Inspection 1 - Foundation Inspection
This inspection usually occurs after the concrete footing or slab has been installed at the property, and should be done before the installation of the sub-floor. For those homes with crawl spaces or basements, the inspection is performed after the footings and foundation walls are installed and before or just after the floor joists are installed. This should precede the back fill. The inspector will be checking for thickness and reinforcement of foundation materials. The inspection will help ensure the depth and types of footing and soils that support them.

The inspection also provides the inspector the opportunity to check proper plumbing drainage and also check for proper protection of plumbing piping. The inspector also will check any system that passes through the concrete or foundation, such as electrical. Finally, the inspector will evaluate the foundation drainage for proper installation.

Inspection 2 - Rough-In Inspection (Pre-Drywall)
Rough-in inspections occur before drywall is installed, prior to the finished cladding of the house, the installation of siding, windows, roof and doors. This inspection allows the inspector to visually inspect framing, roof, floors, and supports. It also allows the inspector to check the plumbing and electrical components that would otherwise be concealed after the home construction is completed.

Inspection 3 - Final Inspection
The final inspection occurs once all utilities are turned on and in working condition. The first two inspections are more technical; this final assessment is more like the typical home inspection. This inspection is an over-all review of all of the components of your house. The inspector operates all household equipment, such as furnace, air-conditioner, dishwasher, any built-in appliances, all outlets, switches, windows, doors, and many other things. This inspection usually includes on-site consulting.

When considering a phase inspection, ask the home inspector:

ü The details of each phase inspection.
ü The cost.
ü The number of inspections included in the cost.
ü The cost of any additional inspections required.

Keep in mind that when you compare prices that you are comparing the details of the service.

Household Tips

2009-05-27T14:08:00.000-07:00

Here are some simple household tips that may save you some money and aggravation.

1.Remove broken light bulb with potato. (make sure the electric is off)

2.Use Empty toilet paper roll to store appliance cords.

3.Use vertical strokes when washing windows outside and horizontal for inside windows. This way you can tell which side has the streaks. Straight vinegar will get outside windows really clean. Don't wash windows on a sunny day. They will dry quickly and streak.

4.Unclog a sink drain without harmful chemicals, just drop two Alka Seltzer tablets down the drain. Then dump a cup of white vinegar down the drain, allow it to work for about ten minutes, then run the hot water until drain is clear.

5.Spray your favorite perfume on the light bulb in any room to create that scent in the room when the light is turned on.

6.If a wooden door is scraping on its threshold,
Use sandpaper on top of a stack of magazines, just
put the stack of magazines and sandpaper under the open door. Use enough magazines so that the door hits the sandpaper snugly wile working the door back and forth over
the sandpaper.

7.Use Vaseline jelly instead of oil on door hinges. This will keep the drips of oil off of your carpet.

8.A squeaky hardwood floor is usually caused by floorboards
rubbing against each other. By sprinkling talcum powder or liquid wax over the boards and sweeping or rubbing it into the cracks, this will usually take care of the squeaks.

9.When drilling holes into a ceiling, you can avoid an eye full of dust by using an aluminum pie pan with a hole through the center. Hold the pie pan under the area to be drilled, and put the bit through the hole in the pie pan. This way the pan will catch the dust.

10.To remove fresh carpet stains, sprinkle dry cornstarch or baking soda on carpet wait ten minuets and vacuum.

11.You can make homemade furniture polish by combining 1/2 cup lemon juice to 1-cup vegetable oil or olive oil.

12.To loosen a rusty screw, apply a squirt of vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.

13.Keep bathroom mirrors from fogging by waxing them with liquid car wax.

14.Heating the window jams with a hairdryer can loosen old wooden windows that are stuck. Once the window is opened, rub an old candle in the window jams.

How Long Will This Last? (By Request) Part 2

2009-05-06T06:10:00.001-07:00

Here are some tips on how to determine your overall home maintenance plan for the next five to 10 years by knowing the longevity of your home appliances and various components of your home .
APPLIANCES
Clothes dryer 14
Clothes washer 13
Dishwasher 10
Microwave oven 11
Range, electric 17
Range, gas 19
BATHROOM FIXTURES
Cast-iron tub 50
Fiberglass tub/shower 10-15
Toilet 50
COUNTER TOPS
Ceramic 15-25 years
Granite lifetime
laminated 10-15
Wood 20+
DOORS
Exterior, protected by overhang 80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25-30
Garage door 20-50
Garage-door opener 10
Interior, hollow core 30
Interior, solid core 30 to life
Screen 25-50
FLOORS
Oak or pine lifetime
Slate flagstone lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20-30
HEATERS and AIR CONDITIONERS
Heat Pump and Central Air Conditioner: 15 years
Furnace, gas- or oil-fired 16
Water heater, electric 11-14
Water heater, gas 11-13
LANDSCAPING
Deck, wooden 15
Driveway, asphalt 10
Fence 12
Patio, brick or concrete 24
Walkway, concrete 24
Walkway, gravel 4
ROOFING
Asphalt 15-30
Sheet metal 20-50
Slate 50-100
Tile 50
Wood shingles and shakes 15-35
SIDING
Aluminum 20-50
Metal 50 to life
Vinyl 30
Wood 30-100

According to The HomeTeam Inspection Service/HouseDoctors Handyman Service, in conjunction with the National Association of Home Builders, these numbers represent the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components of your home to last. Life expectancy may vary greatly depending on quality of material, installation, maintenance, environmental factors and use.

How Long Will This Last? (By Request)

2009-05-04T06:51:00.000-07:00

I think that most everybody checks expiration dates on items they purchase from a grocery store, especially if it is a bulk item. Knowing the longevity of your purchase will dictate how you use it. For example; you may not buy a bulk item if your family cannot finish the entire item before the expiration date, that would be a waste of money. The items you buy from a grocery store are small ticket items compared to the purchase of a home, but how many people check the expiration date of their home’s components and appliances? The answer is very few people know the longevity of their home’s components and appliances, unless they have had a handyman work on their house or have had a home inspection. As a homeowner, knowing the longevity of your home’s components and appliances can help you budget for repairs, and help avoid expensive surprises. As a home purchaser, knowing the longevity of the home’s components and appliances can help you make the best deal on your purchase. For example; If you are looking to purchase a home that is fifteen years old, and all components and appliances are original, you can expect to replace the appliances soon and other major components in the next five years. This house may not be for you, if you cannot budget twenty to thirty thousand dollars or more for repairs in the next five years. Or maybe this information can help you negotiate a purchase price that reflects the cost of the anticipated repairs.

Tune in tomorrow for a guide line list of the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components and appliances in your home to last.

Masonry Maintenance (After the Cleaning)

2009-04-27T08:01:00.000-07:00

The cleaning went well, and now we can see what repairs need to be done. The next step is to take a mortar sample to our expert (Chub Garrett) for a good match, so we can replace the missing mortar. Missing mortar on walls should be repaired, but it is not as big of a deal as missing mortar on paving. Missing mortar on paving will let water go in the voids and undermine the dirt under the paving, this will cause the bricks to sink and make low spots. The low spots will collect water making the deterioration rapid. The sunken brick will make trip hazards, and should be repaired. Before we start re-pointing we will have to pull up all of the sunken brick and re-lay them.

Take a look at the before and after pictures, and see the big difference!

Years of Car and Bus Exhaust

Side Wall Before Cleaning

Floor Tile Before Cleaning

Side Wall Before Cleaning

Steps and Walk Before Cleaning

Cleaning In Progress

Walk Before Cleaning

Cleaning In Progress

Big Difference

Steps After Cleaning

Steps and Walk After Cleaning

Side Wall After Cleaning

Now we can see what repairs we need to do

Side Wall After Cleaning

Steps and Wall After Cleaning

Please send any topic request to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

Masonry Maintenance (Holly's House)

2009-04-21T06:18:00.000-07:00

Masonry Maintenance

Normal masonry maintenance consists of cleaning, re-pointing, and sealing. In the case of Holly’s House the masonry has weathered for over eighty years and will need to be thoroughly cleaned and dried before the mortar can be matched for re-pointing. I have found that if you re-point (replace missing mortar) before the masonry is cleaned, you run the risk of a bad mortar color match. With masonry of this age the mortar was mixed with sand from a near by riverbank. The river sand contained a lot of small shell and gravel pieces giving the mortar a rough texture. To keep our re-pointing from looking like a “patch job” the color and the texture need to match the old work as close as possible. Matching old mortar and the general restoration of old masonry is defiantly an art. We are very fortunate to have Norman (Chub) Garrett on our team. Chub has over fifty-six years in the masonry field and was one of only three Masons to receive the “Master Masonry Craftsmanship Award” in Virginia. Chub takes pride in being a living virtuoso of masonry history and restoration. Chub has restored or been the go-to-guy for many historic landmarks in Virginia.
We are going to start cleaning the masonry on the front porch area of the house. As you can see from the pictures below, the masonry has been weathered and stained by mold, car exhaust, and dirt. New masonry requires strong chemicals such as Muriatic Acid to clean mortar off of the masonry surfaces, but in our case there is no mortar on the masonry surface, only dirt, mold, and car exhaust. To remove this dirt, mold, and car exhaust we are going to use a biodegradable soap and a low P.S.I pressure washer.
This will get the job done and keep the plants and flowers safe.

Let's start the cleaning!

See you tomorrow.

Chinese Drywall (By Request)

2009-04-08T08:21:00.000-07:00

By request: This article was written by request from several readers. Please sent request to agarrett@hometeaminspection.com and put the words “blog request” in the subject box.

Handymen and Home Inspectors are discovering strange odors in some homes built in the past six years. The odor is often described as a rotten egg smell or that of discharged fireworks. The odor is being produced from defective Chinese drywall that has unusually high levels of hydrogen sulphide and ammonia.

Defective Chinese Drywall/Sheetrock is beginning to be Part of a National Investigation, due to reported health issues and rapid corrosive damage to any metal in the home including electrical wiring, plumbing, and HVAC units. There has been a flood of law suits filed or pending and many more to follow.

Chinese drywall:
During the big housing boom in late 2003, a mass quantity of drywall was shipped to the US from China. Chinese drywall has been reported to have unusually high levels of hydrogen sulphide and ammonia that can cause health issues and rapid corrosive damage to any metal in the home including electrical wiring, plumbing, and HVAC units.

Timeline:
Any house built or remolded between 2003 to present.

Where:
According to Americas Watchdog, "we will find the imported toxic Chinese drywall in every US State, with the heaviest concentrations in the US Southeast, the Gulf States, the US Southwest, Texas, the Mountain West, the DC Metro areas & throughout the Western Provinces of Canada. We think there are at least 300,000 new US homes that contain the imported Chinese drywall, & probably 10,000 to 15,000 homes throughout the Western Provinces of Canada."

Problems:
• Possible health issues for the Occupants of the home
• Rapid corrosion of the HVAC unit components

All copper tubing in unit has turned black as a result of being exposed to the high levels of hydrogen sulphide found in the drywall
• Rapid corrosive damage to electrical system

• Exposed ground wire corroded

• Rapid corrosive damage to copper plumbing systems

• Rotten egg or spent firecracker smell in the home

Identification:
Words on the back of the drywall; “CHINA” in red ink or “KNAUF” in black ink, Stamp on the back of the edge tape; C36, if available.

" KNAUF" ON BACK OF DRYWALL

Inspection Protocol:
Indicators we look for to determine if the house may have Chinese drywall:
• The house was built or remodeled between 2003 to present
• Rotten egg or sulfur-type smell in the home
• Corrosion on air conditioning coils, or HVAC units
• Corroded or black electrical wiring
• Corroded or black copper pipes
• Corroded or tarnished plumbing fixtures

If any of these symptoms are noticeable during the course of your visual inspection, if possible, look at the back of drywall possibly in the attic or garage. Look for the words; “CHINA” in red ink or “KNAUF” in black ink, also look for the Stamp on the back of the edge tape C36.
For more information go to; http://www.doh.state.fl.us/Environment/community/indoor-air/drywall.html

More on Holly’s House tomorrow

Holly's House (Part 12)

2009-04-06T08:43:00.001-07:00

For the most part Handymen and Home Inspectors are in a lot of brick homes that are framed with non-supporting brick cladding. The brick you see on the exterior of a brick/framed house offer no structural support, they only give you the feel of a brick house. During the era Holly’s House was built, it was common for brick houses to be constructed of solid masonry (no wood framing). In a solid masonry house the brick act as the main structural support. The bonds (brick pattern) you see was to inter lock the brick walls together to create a strong solid masonry wall. In this era of masonry, common brick (plain smooth red brick) where used on the exterior of the house on walls not visible from the street. On the exterior walls facing the street or streets, a face brick (decorative brick) was used, and usually in a more decorative pattern. On Holly’s House a common brick was used on the back and one side of the house in an American bond (common pattern). A real nice wood mold face brick laid in an Old English bond was used for the front and one side of the house. Other nice features on the face brick sides include brick arches and a round window.

Here are some pictures of the exterior brickwork:

Street Side

Bull's Eye Window

Front

Side and Rear View

Back View

Common Brick With an Amercian Bond (on the left) Face Brick With an Old English Bond (on the right)

Holly's House (Part 11)

2009-04-02T06:43:00.000-07:00

The ample sized patio in the backyard consist of large rectangular slate laid in a sand/dirt base. The large un-grouted joints have allowed water to seep under the slate and erode the sand and dirt fill, leaving the slate uneven. Slate laid in a sand/dirt base will shift and settle over time and since the joints are opened and not grouted there is nothing to stop the erosion under the slate.
On this project we will re-lay the slate in a dry-pack cement mix and damp-grout the joints. This will make the patio come to form. Maybe when we re-lay the slate the Boss will let us lay it in an Old English herring bone pattern or something.

The first project for the slate patio was to power wash the slate to see it’s true color. There are cleaning solutions for slate, and we will do that after it has been re-laid and grouted. But for now we will just power wash it without a solution and see what we have. When we power wash the slate we will use a nozzle setting of 1,500 to1,600 PSI. Higher PSI can cause slate to shale off some of its top layers.
Take a look at the color difference after the power wash.

View From Second Floor

Can You See Where the Pressure Washer Stops?

Big Difference!

Almost Finished

There will be more pictures of the landscape after April 15, that's when the plants and flowers are scheduled to arrive.

If you have any request for articles you would like me to post, please notify me via the comment section.

Holly" House (Part 10)

2009-04-01T07:13:00.000-07:00

The Home Inspector's job is to identify and report major defects, safety concerns, and maintenance issues of the home he of she is inspecting. The Handyman's job is to make repairs, correct safety issues and perform the maintenance needed. When buying a home it is very important to have a good Home Inspector, Oh! But lets not forget a good Realtor to help you find that perfect house. After all is said and done and you move in to your new house a good Handyman can be your best friend.

To keep you up on Holly's house here is a list of work completed by our handyman:

Replaced broken gate hinge (Repairs)
Bleed all radiators (maintenance)
Repair Shut-off valve on radiator in the back bedroom (Repairs)
Cleaned and serviced boiler (maintenance)
Repaired two double tapped breakers in main electrical panel (safety)
Repaired earth ground in main electrical panel (safety)
Replaced bottom heating element in water-heater (Repairs)
Took apart the diverter valve in (Jack & Jill) bathroom and cleaned it to restore water flow in shower (maintenance)
Replaced shower head in (Jack & Jill) bathroom (Repairs)
Trace down the galvanized hot water supplies that need to be replaced (evaluation)
Clean out stopped up drain in the bathtub in the (Jack & Jill) bathroom (maintenance)
Repair water-pump in the fish pond (maintenance)

See you tomorrow with some outside work in progress.

Holly's House (Part 9)

2009-03-31T06:44:00.001-07:00

When a house has “Good Bones” and “Old World Charm” it makes the maintenance, repairs, and remolding a joy. I look at these projects as an art form. It’s like an original La Gioconda that just needs care and a touch-up.
This project is unique because it is not a project to make the house in to something of beauty, but to gracefully accent its natural beauty and charm. This will take a great deal of research to make this the perfect makeover. The magazines and paint samples or already pilling up on my desk, not to mention the fixture catalogs and the kitchen design ideas. The final call belongs to the boss (Holly) but having a good research team will make her decisions easer.
See you tomorrow

Holly's House (Part 8)

2009-03-20T09:42:00.000-07:00

Masonry is one of the oldest trades, dating back to 3500 BC. Some of the oldest brick work on record was in Mesopotana, which is present day Iraq. The first brick manufactured in the United States were made in Virginia in the early 1600s. Over the years the artistic value of masonry is stilled preferred.
A great deal of the patterns used in masonry were designed for strength and support, but also contribute a wide verity of aesthetic value to the buildings. Holly's House is a good example with the Gothic arch to support the door opening, the Old English brick pattern to tie in the back up brick, and my favorite the Bull's Eye arch that acts as support for a window opening.

Gothic Brick Arch

Support Arches for the Chimney

Bull's Eye Arch

I have witnessed a lot of changes in building materials and building methods in the thirty-eight years I have been in the trades, but the classic stuff is still my favorite. Home Inspectors and Handymen have the opportunity to see it all.

See you tomorrow.

Holly's House (Part 7)

2009-03-16T09:56:00.000-07:00

Holly's house is constructed of twelve-inch thick masonry walls with this Old English brick bond. This is one of the oldest brick bonds known to masonry. Although this pattern is appealing to the eye it was designed for strength. This pattern ties the face brick into the back-up brick to unify the solid masonry walls. The bricks are laid in alternate courses of headers and stretchers. Bricks are commonly about eight inches long and four inches wide. A stretcher is a brick laid so that the eight inch side is showing. The header is a brick laid so that the four inch end is showing, leaving the eight inch length to tie into the back up brick. This locks the back up brick in with the face brick.

Old English Bond

The brick work in this house is in perfect condition and got a thumbs up from the Home Inspector. The only thing this masonry work needs is a spot cleaning in the discolored areas around the porch. We will leave that job to our Handyman.

See you tomorrow.

Holly's House (Part 6)

2009-03-13T03:35:00.000-07:00

The full-length front porch is paved with broken quarry tile to form a mosaic-like pattern. the paving is is great shape and will only need cleaning and the grout sealed. The old-world-feel is abundant in this house, and with some handyman work, some remodeling updates, and interior painting to blend in with the European vibe, this house will be a true classic.

Front Porch

My Great Grandfather came to Richmond in the late eighteen hundreds, yes he was an old English brick mason. He built commercial and residential buildings in the Richmond area up until the late 1920s. The reason I bring this up is I see a lot this broken quarry tile work in a lot of the houses he built, but I cannot trace this work passed him. If anyone has any information on the origin of this broken quarry tile paving, please post a comment.

See you tomorrow.

Holly's House (Part 5)

2009-03-12T05:01:00.000-07:00

The living room truly provides some nice focal points to this classic. Starting with the Gothic arched entrance, the stained glass windows, the working fireplace, and the hardwood stair case.
Another class feature is a working 54 inch brass doorbell chime.

Arched Entrance

Fireplace and Stained Glass Windows

Stairs

Doorbell Chimes

In this series the living room will get a new ceiling fixture, and some new paint.

See you tomorrow.

Holly's House (Part 4)

2009-03-11T09:17:00.000-07:00

The dinning room ceiling has had a tile ceiling installed over the plaster, probably due to cracking or failing plaster. We will know better when we remove the tile and restore the plaster ceiling. The dinning room also has an interesting ceiling fixture that Handymen and Home Inspectors don't see everyday.

Can you guess what it is called?

Okay a Chandelier

A Ceiling Fan

A "Fandelier"

See you tomorrow.

Holly's House (Part 3)

2009-03-10T05:52:00.000-07:00

It will not take the Handyman very long to make the exterior of Holly's House pristine. All that needs to be done is some minor caulking, and some brick and tile cleaning. The land scape only needs the normal spring tune up. The slate patio in the back of the house is in great shape and only needs to be evened up and re-grouted with dry cement/sand mix. The garage only needs a few brick re-pointed and a new mop coat on the roof. Later in the series the kitchen will get a custom remodel.

The windows in the Kitchen
Detached Garage

Rear View

Any Handyman Or Home Inspector will tell you that the most important thing you can do to avoid expensive repairs is to perform regular preventive maintenance on your home. Good bones plus regular maintenance equal a classic beauty.

2009-03-09T10:26:00.000-07:00

Introduction (Part Two)

To continue the introduction of the Old-Stock Home featured in this series I will start with her name, well what we call her. We call her “Holly’s House”.
Holly’s House is a well-constructed structurally sound house that has much charm, not only in her design, but in her location as well. The view from the front porch consists of Maymont Park and the Dogwood lined grove leading to the Virginia World War 1 Memorial Carillon.
Her are some pictures:

World War 1 Memorial Carillon

Holly's House

Maymont Park

See you tomorrow with more pictures.

Good Bones in Old Stock Homes

2009-03-06T08:54:00.000-08:00

The Introduction

She sets regal and strong on the corner of two well known streets in the Richmond, VA’s park district. Experienced Craftsmen of the era skillfully completed her regal stature in the early months of 1929. Her Old-World charm is on exhibition from her slate gable/hip and valley roof to her Old English masonry walls. The full faced front porch with its brick knee walls and rustic timber roof supports, display a Gothic brick arched entrance that truly accents the overall charm of this classic. Without a doubt her structural integrity has not wavered in the least since her construction over eight decades ago. Her concrete footings, solid masonry walls and full cut lumber floor joist and roof rafters have withstood the decades with flying colors. Handymen and Home Inspectors use the term “Good Bones” to describe a house that is structurally sound, and this old stock home has “Good Bones”.

>

This is the first article of a continuing series that will take us behind the scenes of the repair, maintenance and updating of this Old Stock home.

Birds in the Belfry

2009-01-05T08:31:00.000-08:00

As a home inspector it is not unusual to find uninvited guest in the home we are inspecting. During a home inspection the inspector will note obvious openings in attics and crawl spaces, but finding all the openings that can make your home accessible to these uninvited guest is not something that is always obvious during a home inspection.
Below is a common question I receive about uninvited guest:

Question:
We live in an older two-story house that we bought ten years ago. Recently we have noticed that we have birds nesting in our attic.
How are they getting in the attic? How can I discourage them from living there, short of buying a cat to go up there?
I feel this is something I can do ourselves if we knew where to start.
If you have any ideas we would appreciate it.

Answer:
It is most likely that they are getting in your attic by way of the attic vents.
The first place I would check is the gable end vents. Theses vents are the openings in the peak on the end of your house. You will see the louvers; window screen covers the back of these louvers. The screening keeps the birds out. Over the years, the screen gets holes in it and the birds get in. From the attic, inspect the screen for holes. Remember a bird can get in a very small hole.
You can patch the hole, but usually it is easier to just staple new screening to the back of the louvers.

Plastic Pipe Presents Problems

2008-12-30T08:06:00.000-08:00

Polybutylene pipe seems to be on many homeowners’ minds lately, judging by the number of questions I receive about it. Since the questions vary widely, I’ll address the most frequently asked ones here.
What is Polybutylene pipe? It is a form of plastic resin that was used extensively in water supply piping from 1978 until 1995. Due to the low cost of the material and ease of installation, polybutylene piping systems were called "the pipe of the future" and were used as a substitute for traditional copper piping.
It is most commonly found in the "Sun Belt" where residential construction was heavy through the 1980's and early-to-mid 90's, but it is also very common in the Mid Atlantic and Pacific Northwest states. The piping was used for underground water mains and interior water supply piping. It was used in approximately 6 million homes.
How can you tell if you have polybutylene pipes? Polybutylene inside your home can be found near the water heater, in basements, crawl spaces, and coming out of walls and floors to feed sinks and toilets. Copper pipes feeding sinks or other fixtures do not rule out the use of polybutylene. Some plumbers used polybutylene throughout the house, but installed short pieces of copper where the pipes come out of the wall and floors.
The most common polybutylene for the interior is gray in color, and the joint connectors look like a plain wedding band. Polybutylene used under ground to bring water to your house is generally blue, but may be gray or black. If it has “PB” on it, then it is polybutylene. Good places to look for exterior polybutylene are at your main shut-off and at your water meter.
What are the problems with polybutylene pipe? Reports indicate that the chlorine in treated water will cause the polybutylene to become brittle; under pressure it will split apart. Polybutylene pipes can leak at anytime, destroying you home and its contents. The problem is there is no warning or a way to tell or predict that the pipe is nearing the time it will fail. It is not possible for a home inspector or a plumber to determine if the polybutylene is about to fail by looking at the outside of the pipe. The deterioration starts from the inside of the pipe, so no evidence is visible from the outside. Failure can happen suddenly without warning.
To date, lawsuits are still outstanding, and class action settlement dollars are pending. To find out more, go to http://www.pbpipe.com/.
The bottom line is that this pipe is known to be a problem. If you have it in your house, you need to know about it. To have this pipe replaced with copper costs about the same as re-carpeting, or a re-roofing. If you are buying a house that has polybutylene, don’t let the fact stop you from buying the house; these things can usually be negotiated to both parties’ advantage.
If you are still not sure if you have polybutylene, call a home inspector.
Remember, for your protection, get a home inspection.

Cure for the common cold

2008-12-29T08:59:00.000-08:00

‘Most of us have something in common this time of year; yes, it's cold weather. Cold weather can be detrimental to our homes, if we are not prepared. We cannot stop the cold from visiting, but we can prepare some cures to prevent costly repairs and discomfort of this common cold.

Recently, I experienced a cold weather disaster to my rental property. When I talked to my insurance agent I was surprised to find out the extent that cold weather has on costly repairs. My agent told me that it is not unlikely to have cold weather related insurance losses mount to over a billion dollars a year.

In my case, I found out the hard way that during severe cold, your house temperature should not fall below sixty-two degrees, even when no one is home. The exterior walls of your house are commonplace to house water pipes. To keep the pipes from freezing inside the walls, you must maintain at least a temperature of sixty-two or sixty-five depending how severe the cold gets in your area. Pipes that freeze usually burst. This is not good. I know too well. It is a good idea to check for water pipes that are exposed near exterior walls in basements or crawl spaces. These pipes should be insulated; this is an inexpensive cure for a costly problem.

Roof and gutter damage are also major contributors to insurance losses and costly repairs to homeowners. Excessive snow and ice build up can tear off gutters and cause roofs to leak or even collapse. We cannot prevent all problems and catastrophic disasters. But here are some ways to help cure the “common cold" problems:

Ø Keep trees trimmed back at least ten feet from the roof
Ø Keep gutters attached properly
Ø Keep gutters cleaned
Ø Make sure that downspouts are properly attached and free of debris
Ø Keep attic vents clear (well vented attics will help protect your roof from damage due to “ice damming”)
Ø Make sure that the insulation in your attic is adequate for your climate (this will also help protect your roof from “ice damming”)

Take some time to learn what steps you can take to prevent damage to your house. Preventive maintenance is the best way to save you money on costly repairs. With house repairs, you pay now or later. I found that now saves you money over later.

Now is the time to protect your house from”The Common Cold”.

Safe Holidays are Happy Holidays

2008-12-19T06:41:00.000-08:00

Every year we hear of household accidents taking lives around the holiday season. To keep the holiday season a happy season we need to practice safety awareness. The simple fact is this season brings an increased use of electricity, candles, fireplaces, extension cords, live trees indoors, and holiday lights both in and out doors, all of which can increase the risk of fire.
With the holidays approaching, excitement fills the air with the anticipation of lots of food, lots of new toys, and seeing the family members that you only see on special occasions. To ensure the holidays are truly a wondrous event here are some tips to keep you and your family safe:

 Test your smoke detectors
 Test your carbon monoxide detector—if you do not have one, get one- it is worth it
 Check to make sure your fire extinguisher is operable and easy to get to
 Do not leave burning candles unattended
 Dispose of fireplace ashes outside and in a metal container
 After guests have left, take all trashcans outside—in case sparks or a cigarette may have gotten in
 Use indoor extension cords indoors only
 Use only outdoor lights outside your home
 Connect no more than three strands of lights together
 When connecting outdoor light strings together, cover the connections with plastic or something to keep out moisture
 Read the warning labels on decorative lights and follow them
 Check to make sure that all light strings are in good condition
 Unplug light strings before replacing the bulbs
 Do not overload electrical outlets
 Use only UL-approved lights

Remember if you are entertaining guests that smoke, provide plenty of ashtrays, check for cigarettes left burning, and again remember to remove all waste-cans before going to bed.

If you have a live tree in your house for the holidays, here are some tips for you:

 Do not purchase a tree that already has the needles falling off
 Trim a couple of inches off the bottom of the tree just before you put it in water- this will help it absorb water
 Locate the tree away from fireplaces and heat sources
 Water the tree regularly
 Use low voltage bulbs or “twinkle” type bulbs- these types of bulbs generate less heat
 Never use candles, even on artificial trees
 If you use a metallic tree, do not use electric lights on it
 Turn off lights before going to bed

After the holiday season, when it is time to dispose of the tree, you can call your local sanitation office to see what provisions they provide for disposal, but for safety’s sake never burn it in your fireplace.

If you have that hard-to-shop-for person on your gift list, or just want to give someone you love that gift of safety, here are some gift ideas:

 Smoke detectors
 A fire extinguisher
 A carbon monoxide detector
 Flashlight and batteries
 A first aid kit

We all are aware of the danger of fire and smoke and most of us have smoke detectors, and most of us check the batteries. But what about “The silent killer” carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is generated through incomplete combustion of fuel such as natural gas, propane, heating oil, kerosene, coal, and charcoal, gasoline or wood. This incomplete combustion can occur in a variety of home appliances. The major cause of high levels of carbon monoxide in the home is faulty ventilation of funaces, hot water heaters, fireplaces, cooking stoves, grills and kerosene heaters.
Faulty or improper ventilation of natural gas and fuel oil furnaces during the cold winter months accounts for most carbon monoxide poisoning cases.
Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are affordable and easy to install, and in my opinion a must for every home.

Youth groups often sell these items to raise money during the holiday season, so they are easy to find.

Remember the first step to keep your family safe begins with keeping your house safe!!!!

“The very best of holiday wishes to you and yours from all of us”

Unwanted Guest

2008-11-25T00:57:00.000-08:00

Home Inspectors can get some strange questions, for example:

Question: I have a guest living in my home and he doesn't pay rent, he tears up the place and he comes and goes as he pleases. I have a squirrel in my attic. I have tried to catch the little guy many times and I am embarrassed to say that he has outsmarted me at every turn. I thought it to be fun at firstbut I swear I heard him in one of our walls the other day and I amconcerned that he could bite into something that he should not. Should I beworried and what kind of damage can one squirrel do?

Answer: There has been a lot of success using an ultrasonic rodent repeller. These ultrasonic rodent repellers create sound patterns that the pest don’t like, and they will leave. These devices start around thirty dollars. It is best to purchase one that has a money back guarantee.

The main problem is to find the opening in your house they are using to get in. I recommend looking around the eaves and soffits for openings. Once you have evicted your unwanted guest it is time to seal these openings.

Stonewall Heading South

2008-11-24T00:26:00.000-08:00

One concern of any home inspector is water control around foundations or any subterranean wall. The combination of soil and water against a wall can cause hydrostatic pressure that will cause the wall to implode. The main defense is proper water control. Retaining walls much like a foundation wall is a wall that holds soil in its place.

Here is a typical question I receive on this subject.

Question: We just moved into a wonderful cape cod that was built in the 1950's. We love the home, but we have a retaining stonewall on the side of our drive and it appears to be leaning inwards. It looks like there was some patchwork in the past (new concrete). How worried should I be and should I just pay to have a new wall built? Answer: Retaining walls over the years will start to lean inwards because of hydrostatic pressure. This is caused by poor grading on the high side of the wall, and also poor draining at the bottom of the wall. If the wall is leaning in slightly, with proper maintained and drainage the wall can still perform for many more years.
For proper grating at the top of the wall, the dirt should be higher against the wall and sloping down away from the wall. This will help stop water pressure against the wall. You should find drain holes (scuppers) at the bottom base of the wall, removing dirt and debris from these holes will help with drainage. This will also help prevent water pressure against the wall.
Perform these maintenance tips and monitor the wall movement.
If the wall keeps moving, there are other cures besides removing and rebuilding the wall. One such method is to install soil anchors. Soil anchors are rods that go through the wall and under the soil, and are anchored in the soil. There are plates on the open side of the wall that the rods pass through. The rods are treaded and have nuts on the end, by tightening the nuts the wall is pulled back into place, and is held there by the soil anchors.

The All Important Roof Flashing

2008-11-21T05:35:00.000-08:00

Any home inspector can tell you the important role roof flashing plays in avoiding costly leaks. Using the proper flashing in its proper place a good start, but keeping it in good repair will avoid costly repairs to the interior of your house. Inspecting the flashing from the exterior is a good start, but the real story is revealed from the interior of the attic. For example, valley-pan flashing can appear in good condition from the surface, but that is only part of the story. The way it was installed is not apparent from the surface, and improper installation will cause leaks that can only be detected from the underside of the roof.

Here is an example of questions I receive about roof flashing.
Question: We recently had some roof work, including the installation of drip edge. Could you tell me the purpose(s) of a roofing drip edge? Could you also tell me the proper location of a drip edge in relation to a gutter? (I fear that I may have had one installed incorrectly.)

Answer: Of all of the different types of flashing, drip edge flashing is the simplest. Drip edge flashing is commonly used at the rakes (gable end edges) and at the eaves (the leading edge of the roof where the gutters are installed). There are two basic types of drip edge. One type is known as “C”, this type of drip edge does not have an overhang. The other type is known as “Extended”. The Extended type has a hemmed overhang at the edge of the roof deck. Both types can be installed on the rakes or the eaves.
To prevent high wind and rain from entering at the rakes, the drip edge is installed on top of the underlayment. On the eaves the drip edge is installed under the underlayment, this allows any water that gets under the shingles to shed safely off the roof. If there are gutters on the eaves, the drip edge should be extended so water will flow directly into the gutters.

Childproofing Your Home

2008-11-19T08:15:00.000-08:00

As a parent of three and a grandparent of five I realize the challenges, especially when it comes to safety matters. Getting ahead of the game is the answer to avoid harm to your children. Believe it or not, accidental injury is the number one killer of children in American. More children lose their lives to accidents in their homes than to disease or violence. According to the Safe Kids USA organization, 4.5 million children are injured in the home every year.

Every parent knows the danger of sharp corners that can cause head and bodily injuries. Let’s not forget the small objects that any child will put in their mouth and choke on before we know it. Childproofing is a major task and any stone left unturned could result in a potential danger to your child.

We know the dangers of cleaning products and keep them away from our children, but how about the automatic toilet bowl cleaner we use. Dipping their cup in the toilet bowl to get a quick drink is gross, but will not kill them. But a drink out of the toilet with a toxic automatic toilet bowl cleaner in it could be fatal. Toilet lid latches are a great idea, but only if all family members remember to latch them.

A nice warm bath for your baby is a good thing, but water too hot can cause burns and in some cases serious burns. While it is important to adjust bath water to a comfortable temperature for your baby, it is also important to adjust the temperature of your water heater. For safety reasons a water heater should not be set with a temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

All electrical switches and plugs should have cover plates. All plugs should have child proof caps, or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) on outlets near sinks and bathtubs.

Beware of furniture that has moving parts, such as recliner chairs and exercise equipment. It is easy for a child to get their fingers or other body parts caught in a moving part.

Installing window stops will prevent a child from getting their head stuck in a window or getting out of a window. This may sound funny, but a window that has stops will only allow the window to open four inches, see how this can help?
Window cords should always be removed or cut from any drapes or blinds to avoid strangulation.

Child latches on washer/dryers, refrigerators, freezers, drawers, and cabinets will also help prevent an accident. Installing door knob sleeves is a simple way to keep a child out of a room that you are not in.

Have your home inspector inspect all decks and balconies for fall protection devices and general safety.

Reversed Polarity?

2008-11-17T08:38:00.000-08:00

As a home inspector we find a verity of safety concerns, but one of the most common safety concerns is reversed wiring (reversed polarity) on receptacles. This is a potentially dangerous problem, but one that can be easily corrected. Here is a typical question I received on reversed polarity.

Question:
We are moving to New Castle because of a transfer. We went there and found a house we liked, but we had to leave before the Home Inspector could come. We received his report and everything looks good, but there was a note that some of the receptacles had reversed polarity. The report did not indicate that this is a big problem. Since I do not know what reversed polarity is and I have a fear of electricity, this concerns me.
Can you tell me what is reversed polarity and is it dangerous?
Can this condition be corrected?

Answer:
The wire that supplies the power to the outlets consists of three wires, a black wire a white wire and a non-insulated copper wire. The black wire is the hot wire. The white wire is a neutral, and the non-insulated copper wire is a ground. An outlet is wired with the hot connected to the side of the outlet with the small slot, and the neutral lead is connected to the bigger slot. This is done for safety reasons. Cords have one of the prongs wider so the neutral side and hot side line up correctly to match the wiring of the appliance. Provided the outlet is wired correctly, appliances are wired so the hot wire goes to the on and off switch. When wired this way, when the switch is off, there will be no voltage inside the device. If the outlet is wired in reverse (Reversed Polarity) this means that the hot is wired to the bigger slot and the neutral is wired to the smaller slot. With reversed polarity, now the on/off switch is opening and closing the neutral. This will turn the appliance on and off, but even in the off position the appliance still has electricity running through it. This could be a potential danger, but this is a very easy and inexpensive situation to have corrected.

Botanical Garden?

2008-11-13T08:36:00.000-08:00

From one of our home inspectors in the northeast comes this exciting news of an entirely new botanical technology. While on a routine home inspection our savvy inspector found a startling demonstration of previously unheralded ingenuity, a breakthrough which may nudge Daisy, the replicated sheep, from the headlines, or fulfill the promise of ten-pound tomatoes for every pot.

It was just a routine home inspection, nothing in the outward appearance of the home gave any hint of the startling technological breakthrough sheltered inside. Our intrepid veteran had no fear of dark crawlspaces absent humans for decades, or musty attics where time stands still. He had seen Moloch in coal-dust scented fireplaces, braved diabolical electrical service patterned after Dr. Frankenstein's laboratory. But nothing in his experience had prepared him for the amazing display of spontaneous ingenuity he was to encounter one bright New England morning.

The owner had vacated, there was standing room only throughout. Left behind, for posterity, perhaps, or as a gift to mankind, or maybe as a riddle for the University thinkers sure to swarm when the discovery sizzled on the evening news like a Star Wars death ray vaporizing one of Saddam's wobbly SCUDs, was the Mutha of All Inventions. It was awesome. Our man stood agape.

To be sure, a home inspector has to know a lot about a lot. Like a many-headed Hydra, one head must be a carpenter, another an electrician, still another a roofer, yet another an HVAC technician, another a mason, another a plumber. But our expert was humbled by the remarkable synthesis of technology left behind in that living room. He was as in a Holy place, made small by soaring arches reaching heavenward, sensing the presence of the infinite. He took off his hat and scratched his head.

What in tarnation was it?

When we are befuddled by the complex, we do well to fall back on the folk wisdom "one thing at a time." So did our man. It began where a drop of water was about to fall from a blister on the ceiling. For a moment, the drop quivered, then fell. Well, a leaky ceiling is a leaky ceiling.

As it tumbled through space, the drop was intercepted by a funnel fixed to the end of a hollow pipe and suspended from the ceiling. Through this pipe passed a patient multitude of drops, one by one, across the vast empty space below the ceiling to a destination twenty feet away, above a big picture window.

After their long journey the trickle once again separated into drops, again falling one by one, this time into a two-pound coffee can suspended on a string. The coffee can is tapped all the way around with 1/4" plastic tubes, hanging like arms of an octopus. Each of the plastic tubes leads to a potted plant.

One more genius!

Fired Up

2008-11-11T08:04:00.000-08:00

Nothing draws people to a convivial gathering like a crackling fire on a blustery Winter day. Friends and family love the warmth of a fire-and each other. Like a magnet, the dancing flames draw us close. Let's look at the way fireplaces are built and the way they should be maintained to assure our safe enjoyment of them.

Fireplaces are inspected as part of a Home Inspector’s standard service. The firebox is examined for cracks and creosote buildup.

Creosote is a gummy or sometimes-hardened residue left by incomplete combustion. The burning of green or resinous wood will deposit elevated levels of creosote in the vapors of these woods as they condense on the inner walls of a cool chimney. Creosote is not easy to remove, so it is best to burn seasoned hardwood to avoid, as much as possible, the creation of creosote. Creosote build-ups can be very dangerous when they catch fire. The heat of flaming creosote is intense and may crack the chimney liner and make your chimney look like a blowtorch from the outside.

The lining of a firebox is usually brick. Firebrick is different from ordinary brick and made to withstand the heat of your fireplace. The rear of the firebox is called the fireback and the sides are called covings. On the floor of the firebox you will probably see a small metal access cover to an ash dump. This makes it easy to get rid of ashes by raking them into the ash pit underneath. Home Inspectors always look for cracks in the firebox which might allow sparks to pass or poisonous carbon monoxide, a normal byproduct of combustion, to find its way out to living areas of the home.

Your Home Inspector will also check for the presence and operation of the fireplace flue damper. The damper should be kept closed when the fireplace is not in use. The typical forced air furnace will drive your home's heat out the chimney if the damper is left open.

The safe, proper fireplace will also have a hearth at least 16" deep in front of the firebox, or 20" if the firebox opening is greater than 6 square feet. A mesh firescreen or tempered glass viewing doors will protect the area in front of the hearth from possible sparks or shooting embers.

Your fireplace flue should not be shared with any other appliance, such as your furnace, or venting source. Build your fire with kindling rather than lacing the logs with flammable liquids.

Your home should be built so that none of its weight rests on your fireplace and its chimney. This is so that, if the house should settle, the fireplace and chimney will not be subjected to stresses which might cause cracking or misalignment of the masonry.

Now don't get all fired up, be safe and enjoy that cozy fireplace.

Preventing Mildew

2008-11-05T04:07:00.000-08:00

If you are a Realtor, Home Inspector, Handyman, or in any other business that involves you being in many different homes for a living, you know that distinct smell of mold/mildew. Most of us at some time or another, have opened a closet or walked into a basement or a crawl space and have been greeted with that distinct musty odor. If you live in an area that is known for high humidity, you know all too well the problems with mold/mildew. The fact of the mater is that no mater where you live, certain conditions in areas of your home can produce mold/mildew.
Here is a sample of a common mold/mildew question.

Question:
We live in an older two-story home with a full basement. Although the house is full of old-world charm’ it also is filled with a musty mildew odor, which is not so charming. I know with older homes there is going to be some mildew-related problems. The basement is the worst, followed by the bathrooms and closets. Are there things we can do to keep it under control? We would appreciate any tips.

Answer:
There are several steps you can take to combat mildew, starting with cleaning closets, dresser drawers, basements, and any place where mildew is likely to grow. Using a 60-watt light bulb continuously can dry air in closets and other small areas. The heat will prevent mildew. Do not let the bulb touch anything! In addition, hang the clothes loosely so that air can circulate around them.

Controlling dampness in the basement is an important step. Good working gutters and downspouts, and positive sight drainage will help control the dampness that results from ground water. Dampness also can come from condensation, which can be controlled by good ventilation.

Cooking, laundering, and bathing may add 2 or more gallons of water a day to a house. It may be necessary to use a mechanical dehumidifier to control dampness. They always help.

Get rid of musty odors as soon as possible to prevent further mold growth.

It may be necessary to scrub cement or tiled walls and floors in basements, baths, and kitchens with chlorine bleach solution. Use one cup of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water. Rinse with clear water and wipe as dry as possible. Keep windows open until walls and floors and floors are thoroughly dry.

If you can limit dirt and moisture, you have a good chance in eliminating mildew.

Shower Flush Syndrome

2008-11-04T09:25:00.000-08:00

As a home inspector we are asked a wide verity of questions by homeowners dealing with all aspects of their homes. The "shower flush syndrome" question is one I am asked offten.

Question:
We have lived in our four-bedroom three-bath house for three years. I love the house, but I am tired of the “shower flush syndrome”, you know when you are taking a shower and some one flushes the toilet, and the temperature changes to HOT.
Is this something that is just normal, that I have to live with?
My friend said that it could be corrected by redoing the whole plumbing system.
If there is anything that I can do please let me know.

Answer:
At the time the house is built if it is plumbed with larger pipes with enough volume and pressure many fixtures can be used at the same time without noticeable changes in water temperature, and pressure. For example only two fixtures in a bath are run on a ½ inch pipe (the smaller pipe); usually the line to the toilet, and the line for the sink. The hot and the cold for the tub and shower would be run with ¾ inch pipes (the larger pipe). With the increase in pipe size, this will help prevent drastic changes of temperature in the shower when the toilet or sink are being used.
In your case I think that the cure for the problem would be replacing your old tub and shower valve with a pressure balanced tub and shower valve. The pressure balanced tub and shower valves are single handle valve that balances the hot and cold water to try to maintain a temperature range plus or minus 2 degrees.
Call some of your local plumbing companies and compare prices.

Common Mold Questions

2008-11-03T06:57:00.000-08:00

As a home inspector I receive my share of mold questions. Having a mold/air quality test is a good start, but controlling moisture in your home is the key to mold prevention. Here is a sample of the mold questions I receive:

Question:
I saw your article on crawlspaces and found my vents closed and about a quarter of an inch of black mold completely covering the wooden beams and insulation. I had a couple of questions. When I turn on the heat I smell a rich sweet smell; is this mold? I had the entire heating system cleaned and sealed but the smell is still there, though lessened. Is this the mold problem? What can be done to take care of this problem?
Also, do you know if they make white vapor barrier? I found a copperhead in the crawlspace and thought that if the vapor barrier were white, I would avoid nearly picking them up in the future.

Thanks for any help!!!

Answer:
I am glad you opened your vents, but that may not take care of your mold problem. If you have a quarter inch of mold on the wood beams, you have two concerns. The first is that mold will try to digest your wood. Not only is mold eating away at your house, it could be eating away at your health. Mold and mildew need only a damp moist environment and organic material to thrive. They can breed and thrive in drywall backing, carpet backing, in the moist dust particles in your heating system, wood beams, bottom of sheathing, baseboards, and wallpaper to mention the most common.

With exposure to mold and mildew it is common to experience headaches coughs, skin rashes, nausea, runny noses and other sinus problems, and in some cases memory loss. The sweet smell could be mold or mildew; the duct cleaner also has a sweet smell. The duct cleaning surely will help, but it may not completely cure your problem. Here are some things you may consider doing;

Ø Open all the crawl space vents
Ø Make sure your vapor barrier is covering the entire earth portion under the house
Ø Make sure all gutters and downspouts are working properly
Ø Make sure that the earth around the foundation slopes away from the house
Ø Change the furnace filter often

To conquer mold and mildew, you must first conquer moisture. The best defense is good ventilation and water management. Also checking the trouble spots such as the furnace and the bathrooms.
Check your bathroom for plumbing leaks and make sure the exhaust fan works properly and is vented to the outside.
When you have your furnace serviced, have your service tech check the condensate tube; to make sure it is draining properly.

If you or your family are still experiencing any of the aforementioned health symptoms, you may consider having a professional home inspector perform a mold test. You can find some excellent sites on the web, just type “mold” in your search engine, and you will find a lot of good information.
About your snake troubles, you have two choices; You can get a king snake under there and you will not have any poisonous snakes including copperheads. Or perhaps you may prefer to purchase some six-mill white poly sheeting. You can find this at your local building supply. This material comes in different widths; find the size that works best for your size of house. It is fine to install the new poly over the existing, just make sure that the old poly is laying flat.

NATIONAL FIRE PREVENTION MONTH

2008-10-29T05:35:00.000-07:00

According to the National Fire Protection Association, each year, there are total of half a million residential fires reported and more than 4,000 Americans die in fires in their home. Property losses for residential fires total more than four billion dollars a year. As October is Fire Prevention Month, The HomeTeam Inspection Service INC offers tips to ensure your family’s safety:

Children
· Keep lighters, matches or other flammable materials out of the reach of children.
· Babysitters should be aware of escape routes in the house as well as fire department telephone numbers.
· Do not keep items such as cookies or candy near the range or stove.
· Include small children in fire escape route planning and rehearsal. They must understand that they can't hide from fire under a bed or in a closet.

Escape Routes
· You should have a family escape plan and an alternate route. Conduct home “fire drills.”
· Your plan should include an outside meeting place to count every family member.
· You should have at least two exits from the house.
· Fire department numbers should be posted on every telephone.

Kitchen Safety
· Flammable or combustible items should not be stored above the stove.
· The stove should not be left unattended while cooking.
· Wear short or tight-fitting garments that won’t droop while cooking.
· Don’t rest or keep pot-holders, plastic utensils, towels or other non-cooking equipment on or near the range.
· A fire in a pan should be smothered with a lid—never try to put it out by throwing water on it. If cooking oil starts to smoke, turn down the heat.
· Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Electricity
· Avoid using extension cords wherever possible. Extension cords should never be run under rugs or hooked over nails, or cross over doorways.
· Check electrical cords for loose, worn or frayed cords. Unplug before inspection.
· If a fuse blows (or a breaker "trips"), find the cause. Remove excess appliances from a breaker circuit that "trips" often.
· The correct fuse size for each socket in the fuse box is 20 amps for lighting circuits.
· Kitchen appliances, such as a toaster or coffeemaker should be unplugged when not in use.

Smoke Detectors
· You should have at least one smoke detector per floor in your home, with a distinct warning signal loud enough for you to hear in your sleep. Test once per month.
· Smoke detectors should be placed near bedrooms, either on the ceiling or not more than a foot below it on the wall.
· Replace batteries according to manufacturer’s recommendations and never disconnect them.

Heaters and Heating Systems
· Operate portable electric heaters on the floor, at least three feet away from upholstered furniture, drapes, bedding and other materials, and never use them to dry anything.
· Turn heaters off when family members leave the house or are asleep.
· Do not use wood burning stoves and fireplaces unless they are properly installed and meet building codes. Use a fireplace screen to contain sparks.
· Have the chimney and the heating system checked at lease once per year by a trained professional.
· Propane tanks and other fuels, such as gasoline should be stored outside the home in an approved safety container.

Following these few safety tips will help insure your family’s safety for years to come.

Cracked Up

2008-10-24T07:16:00.000-07:00

Is your foundation all it’s cracked up to be?

If you have lived in your home for a while, you have probably seen your share of cracks in the foundation. But are these unsightly marks really anything to be concerned about? Well, it all depends. Cracks in your foundation can be a result of natural expansion and contraction or a sign of a more serious problem, like poor grading. However, it all depends on the type and the size of the crack to determine if it’s a problem or not.

Types of cracks:
There are three types of foundation cracks: horizontal cracks, vertical cracks and step cracks.

Horizontal cracks are usually found in, brick and concrete-block foundations. These cracks are often formed from excessive pressure on the foundation from extremely wet soil around the house. The severity of the crack depends on the width of the opening. For instance, if the horizontal crack is ¼ of an inch wide or wider, you will want to contact a licensed structural engineer for further evaluation. Other indications that a horizontal crack is severe, is if the crack causes the wall to bulge a ½ inch or if the crack has differential displacement, which is when one side of the crack has been pushed in or out more than the other side.

Vertical cracks or hairline cracks are found in all types of foundations and are typically very small and the same size throughout their length. A vertical crack becomes worrisome when the crack starts to grow bigger at the top than at the bottom, or when it goes all the way down to the bottom of the wall and into the footing of the foundation.

Step cracks on the other hand are characteristically found in brick, stone and concrete-block foundations. And just like their name indicates, these cracks usually run up along the mortar joints of the foundation like steps. These cracks are viewed severe if they measure ¼ of an inch or wider, are wider at the top than at the bottom or show signs of differential displacement. In any event, it is always best to consult a licensed structural engineer to evaluate and diagnose the problem.

New home buyers
If you are looking to purchase, or are in the process of purchasing a new home, your home inspector will check for visible cracks in the foundation during your inspection.

What to expect during your inspection
During your home inspection, your inspector will check all the visible structural components of your home, by probing the structural components where deterioration is suspected. However, your inspector will not probe an area that could potentially damage a finished surface or where deterioration is visible.

In addition to checking the stability of the foundation, your inspector will also check for any visible cracks and to see if the grading around the foundation is adequate. Because flooding can be a problem no matter where you live in the United States, your inspector will make sure to check for visible water stains around the foundation and baseboards.

One way home inspectors can detect if there has been water damage to a home is by seeing if there is a white, crusty build-up called efflorescence on the foundation. Efflorescence is often caused by water seeping through a foundation’s walls and floor. Other indicators that there has been water damage to the home is if there are traces of mold and mildew, or if there are signs of rust or decay around the basement’s or crawl spaces’ window framing.

After your inspection is complete, your home inspector will note his/her findings in your home inspection report. These details will likely include a description of the foundation, the floor structure, the wall structure and the ceiling structure. If any of these areas are of concern your home inspector will note that these areas may need further evaluation by a licensed structural engineer.

Stained and Discolored

2008-10-23T06:15:00.000-07:00

As a home inspector I receive a lot of questions about repairs and renovation, especially about the two most important rooms in the house. Yes you guessed it, the bathroom and the kitchen. The condition of these two rooms is important to the resale value of your home.
Here is a good example of a bathroom renovation question:

Question:
I recently bought a colonial home. Everything was perfect, except the bathroom – it was old and dingy. I thought that I could spruce it up with a fresh coat of paint and a good cleaning, but that was not the case. The bathtub is nice on the outside, but badly stained and discolored on the inside. I’ve tried everything under-the-sun to try and restore it back to its original luster, but so far nothing has worked. I’m starting to consider either painting the tub or installing an acrylic bathtub liner over the old tub. Is there a downside to doing either one of these?

Answer:
I understand your frustration. Over time bathtubs can get old and dingy, making it more of a battle to clean then it is worth. And if you’re frustrated now with the look of your bathtub, then I do not recommend painting over it. Paint will cover up the stains temporarily, but over time it will begin to chip, peel and fade – potentially making your tub look even worse than it already does.

I think installing an acrylic bathtub liner is a good way to go. Acrylic bathtub liners come in a variety of sizes and colors, so you can easily find the right fit for your tub size and bathroom décor. Plus, acrylic liners resist mold and mildew, which is a nice bonus if you are constantly battling this problem in your bathroom.

Acrylic bathtub liners are available at most hardware stores and through professional bathtub liner carriers. Honestly, the only difference between the two is if you decide to purchase the liner at a hardware store, then you will more than likely have to install it yourself; where as a professional carrier will install it for you – usually within a day!

Audits are Good for Us

2008-10-20T09:08:00.000-07:00

Let's face it, our homes are one of our biggest investments. There are many things a home inspector can do to help protect your investment, and even help you increase the value of your home, including an Energy Audit. Increased energy efficiency and resource conservation are good for the environment and good for the economy. Indeed, they are good for all of us. A home energy audit will show you how to save money on utility bills, increase the comfort of a home, increase the value of a home, and help improve the environment. An energy audit will examine, measure, and evaluate the factors that affect energy use in a home, finding all energy saving opportunities. The information gathered during the energy audit is analyzed using specialized software to produce a comprehensive Home Energy Tune-uP® Report.
The Report shows which energy-efficiency improvements would reduce energy costs and make the home more comfortable.
The analysis takes into account regional variables such as local weather, implementation costs, and fuel prices.
The Report contains estimates of the savings, costs and payback for each energy-efficiency recommendation.
The Report identifies the group of improvements that, if financed, will save more on energy bills than it costs. These are the improvements that everyone can make since they require no out-of-pocket cost when financed.
The detailed recommendations section enables contractors to provide preliminary cost estimates without a visit to the home.
It also explains how to get the best energy savings from these improvements by listing related no-cost low-cost measures that can be taken.

You can reduce your energy expenditures by developing energy saving habits:
· Showers usually require less hot water than baths. Additional savings can be realized by installing simple water-saving shower heads. This will reduce water consumption, which is good for everyone. The primary benefit is lower heating bills brought about by using less energy to heat less water.
· Use heat-generating appliances such as washers, dryers or ovens during the cooler hours of the morning or evening. This reduces the load on your air conditioner in the summer, and actually helps heat the house in the winter.
· Electric cook tops are energy drains. Use the appropriate burner for your pan size. Also, flat bottom pots make better contact and conduct heat from the elements more efficiently than pots with warped or rounded bottoms.
· Wash only full loads of clothes when possible and clean your dryer's lint filter after every load.
· Consider replacing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs. Fluorescent bulbs put out approximately four times as many lumens per watt. For example, a 25 watt fluorescent bulb provides as much light as a 100 watt incandescent bulb. Fluorescent bulbs also last about ten times as long!
· In the summer, keep drapes and curtains closed on the sunny side of the house. In the winter, open those drapes and curtains on sunny days to take advantage of the sun's heating power. Close all drapes, blinds or shades at night in winter to make use of their insulating properties.
· Use an exhaust fan to pull excess heat and humidity out of the kitchen and bathroom in the summer. Be aware, however, that exhaust fans can rapidly pull the heat from your house in the winter.
· Perhaps the most often quoted hint for saving energy in the home is to set thermostats at 68° F in the winter and 78° F in the summer.

These How-To's are provided as a service from Lowe's, the Original Home Improvement Warehouse of How-To information for the World Wide Web.

Pipe Dreams

2008-10-16T07:45:00.000-07:00

A home inspector is not a code inspector, and the main reason is that a house that was built to code a few years ago my not meet the code standards of today. A home inspector reports major defects, safety concerns and maintenance issues, this supersedes codes. In many cases the safety issues we report are in violation of a code anyway.
Here is an example of a related question I received:

Question:
I live in an older home that thought out the years has had many repairs and updates, not to mention many different people working on it. Recently we had our water heater go out and I think I hired the wrong person to replace it. We have a gas water heater with a metal flue pipe coming out of the top of the water heater then turning and going to the chimney. My concern is when the water heater was replaced, the installer used a plastic pipe called CPVC. This plastic pipe runs with in an inch of the flue pipe, and the flue pipe gets hot. We had a home inspector do a pre-listing inspection and he wrote this up as a defect. I tried to call the installer to find out if this work was up to code, but his phone is disconnected and it appears he has vanished.
Do I need to call some one else, or is this not a problem?

Answer:
In this case you are going to need to have a professional plumber correct this installation. Gas water heaters are require to have a short piece of metallic pipe or appliance connector at least six inches long, above the flue piping. This transition piece is required to prevent damage to the CPVC from excessive heat build-up in the flue. In some areas CPVC can be installed directly onto electric water heaters with special transition fittings, but gas water heaters always required the metallic connectors. A licensed plumber will consult local code requirements prior to installation, and in most cases a local permit is required. The home inspector reported this because it will turn into a maintenance issue and maybe a safety concern.

First Impressions

2008-10-14T11:36:00.000-07:00

No matter in which price range your house falls, the buyer’s first impression is one that sets the mode for the transaction. The phrase “curb appeal” is not just another cute phrase, it plays a large role in getting high market value for your house. The first impression certainly starts with the exterior. There are inexpensive things you can do to achieve good “curb appeal”, such as:

Keep the grass freshly cut
Avoid clutter in the yard
Fresh paint on wooden fences
The front door needs to look good (fresh paint) if needed
Make sure that all door handles are tight and clean
Wash or paint the exterior of the house
Make sure the windows are cleaned inside and out
Make sure that gutters and downspouts are firmly attached, and in good working order
Fresh mulch in flower borders

Tips for the interior include:

Avoid excessive things hanging on the wall
Avoid excessive knick-knacks sitting around
Keep rooms as open as possible (you may consider a temporary self-storage unit)
Clean or paint walls and ceilings
Carpets should be clean and smell good
Remove things from under the sink cabinets

Repair all plumbing leaks, this includes leaking faucets, and duct-taped drain traps

Make sure all light fixtures are clean and free of dust

Sight is not the only thing that makes a good first impression, the nose plays its part as well. These things will help in that department:
Keep the central air filter changed (it makes no difference if it is the heating or cooling season) Pour water in basement floor drains (this keeps the drain traps from becoming dry, and letting in sewer odor)
Control cigarette and pet odor

When making a real estate transaction, hiring professionals will help you get the most value for you transaction. Real Estate Professionals and Professional Home Inspectors are key players to have on your team to protect this important investment.

Dead Man Does Repair

2008-10-08T16:43:00.001-07:00

Imploding Basement Foundations are generally but not limited poor water control. The foundations that are most vulnerable are the ones that are built with CMUs (cinder block). Consequently these foundations require good water control to maintain their structural integrity.

Here is an example of foundation questions I receive:

Question:
Recently we inherited an early 1900’s house when my Grandmother passed away. We were looking for a house, so we decided to not sell my Grandmothers house, but keep it and live there.
The work that the house needs is mostly things that we can do ourselves, except for one thing. The basement wall on the up hill side is caving in. We know that this is a big job, and probably costly.
Can you give us some idea of who to call and what kind of work is involved?
Can you tell us how much of the house they will have to tear down to fix this problem?

Answer:
The first thing to do is call some foundation/basement repair companies, to get estimates. The cost is based on the method that has to be used. If the wall is bowed in only a couple of inches then, it can be repaired with soil anchors (Dead Man).
The soil anchor method is done with minimum disturbance to the house and the landscaping.
Here is the procedure for the soil anchor method:
* The installers will find good hard ground, around ten feet or so from the out side of the wall.
* Then they will dig a hole about two feet square, every six or eight feet.
* Then an earth anchor is placed in the holes; these anchors are a steel plate about two-foot square.
* From theses holes they dig a narrow trench to the house for a steel anchor rod to go in.
* Where the trenches meet the house, a hole is drilled through the basement wall
* The steel rod is attached to the earth anchor.
* Then the steel anchor is placed in the trench and through the anchor holes in the basement wall.
* Where the rod comes through the basement wall, a metal plate is attached to the end of the rod, (these plates are about 16 inches square).
* The steel wall plates are tightened until the wall is back to its original position.
When the walls are extremely bowed, they use a dig-out method. With a small backhoe the dirt is removed from the outside walls, this removes the soil pressure. Then the soil anchor method is used to pull the walls back in place. This method is more expensive and makes a little more mess, but works very good.

It is very important to keep gutters and downspouts in good working order, and maintain the soil level around house so water will run away from the foundation. Water around foundation will cause the hydrostatic pressure that implodes foundations.

A professional home inspector will recognize and explain poor water control issues your home may have.