Hi Al,
I purchased a house early this summer, and it came with an above-ground pool. This pool has a deck all the way around it, and a heater as well. The previous owner said they used the pool to the end of September every year, before they winterized it. I have never had a pool before and I am not sure I understand what is involved in winterizing my pool.
Is this something I can do myself, or do I need to have a pool company do it?
Can you give me an idea of what this entails?
Frank E.
Answer will be posted tomorrow.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Damp Crawl (Answer)
Hey
Debbie,
It sounds like you have a good start on fixing your problem. Yes, the vapor barrier should cover the floor completely. Also, the seams should overlap and be taped to seal them.
Condensation builds up as a result of temperature differences, so if the crawl space temperature stays close to the temperature outside, the condensation problems decline. Here is a list of things to consider:
Make sure you have good cross ventilation in the crawlspace.
Make sure that the vapor barrier is sealed everywhere.
Make sure that the insulation under your floor is adequate and in place.
All exposed ductwork and plumbing lines should be insulated.
In the very worst case, to solve the problem, you may have to install a dehumidifier.
There are a number of fungus killers on the market that would help. I recommend that you achieve good ventilation in the crawlspace first, and then see how bad the fungus is at that point. In many cases the ventilation alone will cure the fungus problem.
Hope this helps,
Al
You can send your questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com
Debbie,
It sounds like you have a good start on fixing your problem. Yes, the vapor barrier should cover the floor completely. Also, the seams should overlap and be taped to seal them.
Condensation builds up as a result of temperature differences, so if the crawl space temperature stays close to the temperature outside, the condensation problems decline. Here is a list of things to consider:
Make sure you have good cross ventilation in the crawlspace.
Make sure that the vapor barrier is sealed everywhere.
Make sure that the insulation under your floor is adequate and in place.
All exposed ductwork and plumbing lines should be insulated.
In the very worst case, to solve the problem, you may have to install a dehumidifier.
There are a number of fungus killers on the market that would help. I recommend that you achieve good ventilation in the crawlspace first, and then see how bad the fungus is at that point. In many cases the ventilation alone will cure the fungus problem.
Hope this helps,
Al
You can send your questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com
Monday, September 14, 2009
DAMP CRAWL (Question)
Hey Al,
I have a house that is built on a crawl space, it has a severe condensation problem. We were told by a Home Inspector to install a vapor barrier in the crawl space under our house. We have done this; but the condensation is worse. It is coming off our waterlines and heat pump vents. Should we have installed the vapor barrier completely against the walls or left a space between the walls and the plastic barrier?
Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of the fungi that is on the joists?
Thank you for your help.
Debbie
See answer posted tomorrow.
I have a house that is built on a crawl space, it has a severe condensation problem. We were told by a Home Inspector to install a vapor barrier in the crawl space under our house. We have done this; but the condensation is worse. It is coming off our waterlines and heat pump vents. Should we have installed the vapor barrier completely against the walls or left a space between the walls and the plastic barrier?
Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of the fungi that is on the joists?
Thank you for your help.
Debbie
See answer posted tomorrow.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Fall Checklist Continued
5. Investigate the Plumbing in Your Home
• Put away garden hose and shut off hose bibs
• Insulate water supply lines and water heater
• Fix slow drip leaks and leaky valves
• Install temperature and pressure valves
• Tighten any loose fixture attachments
6. Take Time to Observe the HVAC
• Cover your air conditioner
• Tightly seal all ductwork seams with foil tape
• Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors or check for battery life
• Clean flues from the furnace, water heater, and fireplace
• Have a heating contractor inspect and ready your heating system
The above suggestions may require professional assistance to ensure proper installation.
• Put away garden hose and shut off hose bibs
• Insulate water supply lines and water heater
• Fix slow drip leaks and leaky valves
• Install temperature and pressure valves
• Tighten any loose fixture attachments
6. Take Time to Observe the HVAC
• Cover your air conditioner
• Tightly seal all ductwork seams with foil tape
• Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors or check for battery life
• Clean flues from the furnace, water heater, and fireplace
• Have a heating contractor inspect and ready your heating system
The above suggestions may require professional assistance to ensure proper installation.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Fall Checklist Continued
3. Check for Problems on Your Roof
• Clean gutters and downspouts and make sure they are securely attached
• Check for missing or cracked shingles
• Look for signs of a leaking roof
• Observe chimney and flu stack for visible damage
• Be sure all bath, kitchen, and dryer vents go entirely outside of your home, not just into the attic.
4. Look Over Any Electrical Wiring
• Check outdoor recepts to make sure they are water tight
• Change or install bulbs in any outdoor light sockets
• Upgrade faulty wiring
• Set up GFCI recepts by sinks, lavatories, garage and outdoor receptacles
• Contact an electrician if you constantly blow fuses or trip circuit breakers
• Clean gutters and downspouts and make sure they are securely attached
• Check for missing or cracked shingles
• Look for signs of a leaking roof
• Observe chimney and flu stack for visible damage
• Be sure all bath, kitchen, and dryer vents go entirely outside of your home, not just into the attic.
4. Look Over Any Electrical Wiring
• Check outdoor recepts to make sure they are water tight
• Change or install bulbs in any outdoor light sockets
• Upgrade faulty wiring
• Set up GFCI recepts by sinks, lavatories, garage and outdoor receptacles
• Contact an electrician if you constantly blow fuses or trip circuit breakers
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
FALL TUNE UP CHECKLIST
A mechanic’s job is to maintain the condition of our cars, whether it may be changing the oil, rotating the tires, or checking the brakes. Similarly, homeowners must take care of their homes, providing service whenever necessary.
Here are some tips and advice on making your home safer and more energy efficient for when the cold weather sets in.
1. Examine Your Home’s Foundation
• Examine crawlspace for standing water, mold, or fungus
• Install vapor barrier for crawlspace
• Check for cracks in basement walls
• Identify basement leaks
• Check for proper insulation in basement and crawlspace
2. Inspect the Framing and Exterior
• Reseal brickwork every five to eight years
• Caulk around windows, doors, utility line entrances, and vents
• Look for signs of insect activity, especially in crawlspace framing and around floor-framing perimeter
• Secure any loose sections of vinyl or aluminum siding and replace damaged sections when appropriate
• If necessary, retrofit insulation into sidewalls and attic floors
Here are some tips and advice on making your home safer and more energy efficient for when the cold weather sets in.
1. Examine Your Home’s Foundation
• Examine crawlspace for standing water, mold, or fungus
• Install vapor barrier for crawlspace
• Check for cracks in basement walls
• Identify basement leaks
• Check for proper insulation in basement and crawlspace
2. Inspect the Framing and Exterior
• Reseal brickwork every five to eight years
• Caulk around windows, doors, utility line entrances, and vents
• Look for signs of insect activity, especially in crawlspace framing and around floor-framing perimeter
• Secure any loose sections of vinyl or aluminum siding and replace damaged sections when appropriate
• If necessary, retrofit insulation into sidewalls and attic floors
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
HAVE YOUR HOME INSPECTED BEFORE YOUR ONE YEAR WARRANTY EXPIRES
Happy one year birthday to your beautiful newly purchased home. But buyer beware: make sure the systems in your home are in good working order before your one year warranty expires. As the one-year warranty draws near its expiration date, this is a crucial time to have a home inspection in order to avoid paying large bills on maintenance repairs and fixtures.
Greg Haskett, vice president of The Home Team Inspection Service suggests, “A homeowner should review their warranty a couple of months before it expires and familiarize themselves with the policy, then order an inspection to make sure all of the systems are functional."
Following are several of the specific potential problems that should be professionally inspected prior to the warranty expiration:
• Furnace-Evaluate and verify its working order and any maintenance issues.
• Roof-Inspect for any damaged shingles or leaks.
• Attic-Inspect for signs of water damage due to faulty flashing or leaky roof.
• Potential Leaks-Plumbing, roof damage, and other areas in need for repair could be responsible for leaking water into the home.
• Appliances-Test for normal working condition.
• Foundation-Check for any cracks or leaks in a faulty foundation that could lead to massive damages for the home.
It is strongly recommended that within eight to ten months of the purchase you have a home inspection, which will leave time for the builder to fix and most importantly, compensate for any necessary repairs before the warranty ends.
Through the expertise of a comprehensive and professional inspection, any minor or major repairs in newly built homes can be detected while still under the one-year warranty, saving potentially large expenses later.
Greg Haskett, vice president of The Home Team Inspection Service suggests, “A homeowner should review their warranty a couple of months before it expires and familiarize themselves with the policy, then order an inspection to make sure all of the systems are functional."
Following are several of the specific potential problems that should be professionally inspected prior to the warranty expiration:
• Furnace-Evaluate and verify its working order and any maintenance issues.
• Roof-Inspect for any damaged shingles or leaks.
• Attic-Inspect for signs of water damage due to faulty flashing or leaky roof.
• Potential Leaks-Plumbing, roof damage, and other areas in need for repair could be responsible for leaking water into the home.
• Appliances-Test for normal working condition.
• Foundation-Check for any cracks or leaks in a faulty foundation that could lead to massive damages for the home.
It is strongly recommended that within eight to ten months of the purchase you have a home inspection, which will leave time for the builder to fix and most importantly, compensate for any necessary repairs before the warranty ends.
Through the expertise of a comprehensive and professional inspection, any minor or major repairs in newly built homes can be detected while still under the one-year warranty, saving potentially large expenses later.
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