If you are planning to sell your house in today’s market it is even more important to have a pre-listing inspection on your home by a professional home inspector. This can give you the edge you need over other houses on the market. For more information see my earlier post (The Tale of Two Houses). In addition to a pre-listing inspection you want your home looking its best. It is also important to invest your money on improvements that will give you the most value for resale. Kitchens and bathrooms are two of the most high-traffic rooms in our homes. Here are some tips on how to make these hard-working rooms look their absolute best and refreshed without breaking the bank.
A FEW SIMPLE IDEAS TO GIVE KITCHENS AND BATHROOMS A FACELIFT
Quick and Easy Fix-ups That Won’t Break the Bank
SPRUCE UP YOUR KITCHEN
· “SPLASH OF COLOR”: Painting is one of the most versatile decorating tools and adding a new color to the walls will do a lot to lighten and brighten. Yellows and reds can make your kitchen seem warm and cozy, while blues can create an atmosphere of cool sophistication. Lighter colors will make the room seem bigger while textures can add contrast and interest. But don't stop there! Repainting the cabinets can completely transform your look. An inexpensive way to freshen up dark cabinets is with a new coat of paint.
· “ADD SOME SPARKLE”: A new trend in painting is called "glazing," which you can do over a painted door. Take a can of glaze and have tint added. Use a brush to apply sparingly to achieve a streaked, antique look!
· “CONSIDER A FACELIFT”: Replacing dated hinges, handles and knobs with new, stylish hardware is an easy way to make cabinets more attractive. Just changing your cabinet knobs can add a touch of whimsy, a vintage look or a contemporary feel.
· “THROW ON A TILE”: Changing a countertop is a dramatic part of creating a new look. Ceramic tile is also a great do-it-yourself way to update worn-out counters. Peel-and-stick mirror tiles are available at most building stores, for an instant backsplash brightener. Ceramic subway tiles are yet another trendy look that's surprisingly easy to do, especially if you can adjust the design to avoid having to cut them.
TURN YOUR BATHROOM INTO A PERSONAL SPA
· “A SHOWER YOU DESERVE”: Tiled showers can be cold and dark once the curtain is drawn. Warm up the space with a combination light fixture/heat lamp. A lot of showers already have a light fixture, so this can be an easy change out. Change the showerhead or simply add an attachment to your shower wall for the ultimate spa experience! There are many options that offer multiple body sprays and massaging jets.
· “NO MORE CHILLY FEET”: Changing the ceramic floor tile is a common update, but ceramic tile floors can get chilly. To prevent cold feet add a radiant heating system before you install the tile. These ultra-thin electric heating systems are easily installed in cement under ceramic tile and stone floors.
· “TAP INTO NEW DESIGN”: Putting in a new faucet can give your bathroom sink a whole new look. Many new faucet styles are specially designed for do-it-yourself installation, using just basic tools, and there is a variety of styles to choose from that cost less than $100.
The above suggestions may require professional assistance to ensure proper installation.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Lost in Thin Air
You may have read or heard that, for an "average" house, 20 to 30 percent of the energy used for heating and cooling is lost through the ductwork. Most of this loss is through small gaps in the joints of the ductwork of forced-air distribution systems. In a forced-air distribution system the duct runs do not merely pass the air blown into them by your furnace's air-handler, they are actually pressurized. Air not only rushes out these registers, it is forced through the hundreds of seams and gaps of the typical duct system. For this reason, it is the imperative of good installation practice to seal every joint and seam with a tape or adhesive caulk.
Don't use duct tape for this job!
The duct tape that has become a cultural icon-that grey, gummy stuff-is surely one of the twentieth century's all-purpose miracle remedies. I have appreciatively availed myself of the Johnny-on-the-Spot characteristics of duct tape to patch old jeans torn at a construction site, and to reinforce a sledge hammer handle that had started to split before the job was finished. Other fellas have taped it around their shoes to keep the soles from flappin', or held a rusty bumper on their pickup truck until they got around to buying some new bolts. Duct tape is great for stuff like this.
Now here comes the results of a high-tech study done by The Department of Energy at their Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. They taped up their system of test ducts with duct tape, clear tape, foil tape, mastics and injected aerosols. Then they pressurized their ducts with both hot and cold airflows. They also baked the ducts at temperatures from 140 to 187 degrees, simulating known attic conditions.
According to researcher Max Sherman of the Lab, "..of all the things we tested, only duct tape failed. It failed reliably and often quite catastrophically." It seems that heat degrades duct tape's glue, and then it falls off. Now, fellas in the construction trades have known this about duct tape for years. We're gonna have to call those guys at the lab and tell them what this stuff is really for. That bumper on my truck is still hangin' on!
Don't use duct tape for this job!
The duct tape that has become a cultural icon-that grey, gummy stuff-is surely one of the twentieth century's all-purpose miracle remedies. I have appreciatively availed myself of the Johnny-on-the-Spot characteristics of duct tape to patch old jeans torn at a construction site, and to reinforce a sledge hammer handle that had started to split before the job was finished. Other fellas have taped it around their shoes to keep the soles from flappin', or held a rusty bumper on their pickup truck until they got around to buying some new bolts. Duct tape is great for stuff like this.
Now here comes the results of a high-tech study done by The Department of Energy at their Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. They taped up their system of test ducts with duct tape, clear tape, foil tape, mastics and injected aerosols. Then they pressurized their ducts with both hot and cold airflows. They also baked the ducts at temperatures from 140 to 187 degrees, simulating known attic conditions.
According to researcher Max Sherman of the Lab, "..of all the things we tested, only duct tape failed. It failed reliably and often quite catastrophically." It seems that heat degrades duct tape's glue, and then it falls off. Now, fellas in the construction trades have known this about duct tape for years. We're gonna have to call those guys at the lab and tell them what this stuff is really for. That bumper on my truck is still hangin' on!
Friday, July 3, 2009
"Wasted Vent"
As a home inspector I have found my share of unusual house modifications, but after all the years I can’t say that I have seen it all. The creativity involved in do it yourself home modifications never ceases to amaze me. I have friends that are home inspectors all over the US,and Canada that send me pictures of unusual modifications all the time. In fact I just received an interesting picture of an unusual dryer exhaust hook up for a friend and fellow home inspector in New Orleans.I guess that the Plumbing drain waste vent vents more than I originally knew. Somebody was thinking that the drain waste vent would make a good way to vent their dryer as you see in the picture Jerry sent.
If you have any unusual stories and/or pictures please post them to the comments in this blog.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Phase Out the Problems
If you or anyone you know is building a house or planning to build a house, you need to read this article on "Phase Inspections".
Back in the day when a house was being built there was a general super on the job to monitor the construction. With residential construction becoming more competitive the expensive of having a super on every house is a thing of the past. Wile a phase inspection can not take the place of a stay-on -the-job super, it can eliminate problems before they are covered up from view.
Phase Inspections
When building a new home, it is a good idea to keep an eye on the progress, or the “phases” of the construction. This is done by monitoring the construction at certain major stages or “phases.” This type of inspection is important to monitor and maintain the quality control of the completed project.
Most quality home builders appreciate a second set of eyes to help with quality control. Most commercial builders have a project manager to assist with the building, but an extra set of eyes and a written report from an independent inspector can help the contractor assure a quality product.
Phase inspections are generally a series of three assessments. However, the more in-progress inspections will help prevent costly mistakes.
The following is an example of the basic three-phase inspection:
Inspection 1 - Foundation Inspection
This inspection usually occurs after the concrete footing or slab has been installed at the property, and should be done before the installation of the sub-floor. For those homes with crawl spaces or basements, the inspection is performed after the footings and foundation walls are installed and before or just after the floor joists are installed. This should precede the back fill. The inspector will be checking for thickness and reinforcement of foundation materials. The inspection will help ensure the depth and types of footing and soils that support them.
The inspection also provides the inspector the opportunity to check proper plumbing drainage and also check for proper protection of plumbing piping. The inspector also will check any system that passes through the concrete or foundation, such as electrical. Finally, the inspector will evaluate the foundation drainage for proper installation.
Inspection 2 - Rough-In Inspection (Pre-Drywall)
Rough-in inspections occur before drywall is installed, prior to the finished cladding of the house, the installation of siding, windows, roof and doors. This inspection allows the inspector to visually inspect framing, roof, floors, and supports. It also allows the inspector to check the plumbing and electrical components that would otherwise be concealed after the home construction is completed.
Inspection 3 - Final Inspection
The final inspection occurs once all utilities are turned on and in working condition. The first two inspections are more technical; this final assessment is more like the typical home inspection. This inspection is an over-all review of all of the components of your house. The inspector operates all household equipment, such as furnace, air-conditioner, dishwasher, any built-in appliances, all outlets, switches, windows, doors, and many other things. This inspection usually includes on-site consulting.
When considering a phase inspection, ask the home inspector:
ü The details of each phase inspection.
ü The cost.
ü The number of inspections included in the cost.
ü The cost of any additional inspections required.
Keep in mind that when you compare prices that you are comparing the details of the service.
Back in the day when a house was being built there was a general super on the job to monitor the construction. With residential construction becoming more competitive the expensive of having a super on every house is a thing of the past. Wile a phase inspection can not take the place of a stay-on -the-job super, it can eliminate problems before they are covered up from view.
Phase Inspections
When building a new home, it is a good idea to keep an eye on the progress, or the “phases” of the construction. This is done by monitoring the construction at certain major stages or “phases.” This type of inspection is important to monitor and maintain the quality control of the completed project.
Most quality home builders appreciate a second set of eyes to help with quality control. Most commercial builders have a project manager to assist with the building, but an extra set of eyes and a written report from an independent inspector can help the contractor assure a quality product.
Phase inspections are generally a series of three assessments. However, the more in-progress inspections will help prevent costly mistakes.
The following is an example of the basic three-phase inspection:
Inspection 1 - Foundation Inspection
This inspection usually occurs after the concrete footing or slab has been installed at the property, and should be done before the installation of the sub-floor. For those homes with crawl spaces or basements, the inspection is performed after the footings and foundation walls are installed and before or just after the floor joists are installed. This should precede the back fill. The inspector will be checking for thickness and reinforcement of foundation materials. The inspection will help ensure the depth and types of footing and soils that support them.
The inspection also provides the inspector the opportunity to check proper plumbing drainage and also check for proper protection of plumbing piping. The inspector also will check any system that passes through the concrete or foundation, such as electrical. Finally, the inspector will evaluate the foundation drainage for proper installation.
Inspection 2 - Rough-In Inspection (Pre-Drywall)
Rough-in inspections occur before drywall is installed, prior to the finished cladding of the house, the installation of siding, windows, roof and doors. This inspection allows the inspector to visually inspect framing, roof, floors, and supports. It also allows the inspector to check the plumbing and electrical components that would otherwise be concealed after the home construction is completed.
Inspection 3 - Final Inspection
The final inspection occurs once all utilities are turned on and in working condition. The first two inspections are more technical; this final assessment is more like the typical home inspection. This inspection is an over-all review of all of the components of your house. The inspector operates all household equipment, such as furnace, air-conditioner, dishwasher, any built-in appliances, all outlets, switches, windows, doors, and many other things. This inspection usually includes on-site consulting.
When considering a phase inspection, ask the home inspector:
ü The details of each phase inspection.
ü The cost.
ü The number of inspections included in the cost.
ü The cost of any additional inspections required.
Keep in mind that when you compare prices that you are comparing the details of the service.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Household Tips
Here are some simple household tips that may save you some money and aggravation.
1.Remove broken light bulb with potato. (make sure the electric is off)
2.Use Empty toilet paper roll to store appliance cords.
3.Use vertical strokes when washing windows outside and horizontal for inside windows. This way you can tell which side has the streaks. Straight vinegar will get outside windows really clean. Don't wash windows on a sunny day. They will dry quickly and streak.
4.Unclog a sink drain without harmful chemicals, just drop two Alka Seltzer tablets down the drain. Then dump a cup of white vinegar down the drain, allow it to work for about ten minutes, then run the hot water until drain is clear.
5.Spray your favorite perfume on the light bulb in any room to create that scent in the room when the light is turned on.
6.If a wooden door is scraping on its threshold,
Use sandpaper on top of a stack of magazines, just
put the stack of magazines and sandpaper under the open door. Use enough magazines so that the door hits the sandpaper snugly wile working the door back and forth over
the sandpaper.
7.Use Vaseline jelly instead of oil on door hinges. This will keep the drips of oil off of your carpet.
8.A squeaky hardwood floor is usually caused by floorboards
rubbing against each other. By sprinkling talcum powder or liquid wax over the boards and sweeping or rubbing it into the cracks, this will usually take care of the squeaks.
9.When drilling holes into a ceiling, you can avoid an eye full of dust by using an aluminum pie pan with a hole through the center. Hold the pie pan under the area to be drilled, and put the bit through the hole in the pie pan. This way the pan will catch the dust.
10.To remove fresh carpet stains, sprinkle dry cornstarch or baking soda on carpet wait ten minuets and vacuum.
11.You can make homemade furniture polish by combining 1/2 cup lemon juice to 1-cup vegetable oil or olive oil.
12.To loosen a rusty screw, apply a squirt of vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.
13.Keep bathroom mirrors from fogging by waxing them with liquid car wax.
14.Heating the window jams with a hairdryer can loosen old wooden windows that are stuck. Once the window is opened, rub an old candle in the window jams.
1.Remove broken light bulb with potato. (make sure the electric is off)
2.Use Empty toilet paper roll to store appliance cords.
3.Use vertical strokes when washing windows outside and horizontal for inside windows. This way you can tell which side has the streaks. Straight vinegar will get outside windows really clean. Don't wash windows on a sunny day. They will dry quickly and streak.
4.Unclog a sink drain without harmful chemicals, just drop two Alka Seltzer tablets down the drain. Then dump a cup of white vinegar down the drain, allow it to work for about ten minutes, then run the hot water until drain is clear.
5.Spray your favorite perfume on the light bulb in any room to create that scent in the room when the light is turned on.
6.If a wooden door is scraping on its threshold,
Use sandpaper on top of a stack of magazines, just
put the stack of magazines and sandpaper under the open door. Use enough magazines so that the door hits the sandpaper snugly wile working the door back and forth over
the sandpaper.
7.Use Vaseline jelly instead of oil on door hinges. This will keep the drips of oil off of your carpet.
8.A squeaky hardwood floor is usually caused by floorboards
rubbing against each other. By sprinkling talcum powder or liquid wax over the boards and sweeping or rubbing it into the cracks, this will usually take care of the squeaks.
9.When drilling holes into a ceiling, you can avoid an eye full of dust by using an aluminum pie pan with a hole through the center. Hold the pie pan under the area to be drilled, and put the bit through the hole in the pie pan. This way the pan will catch the dust.
10.To remove fresh carpet stains, sprinkle dry cornstarch or baking soda on carpet wait ten minuets and vacuum.
11.You can make homemade furniture polish by combining 1/2 cup lemon juice to 1-cup vegetable oil or olive oil.
12.To loosen a rusty screw, apply a squirt of vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.
13.Keep bathroom mirrors from fogging by waxing them with liquid car wax.
14.Heating the window jams with a hairdryer can loosen old wooden windows that are stuck. Once the window is opened, rub an old candle in the window jams.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
How Long Will This Last? (By Request) Part 2
Here are some tips on how to determine your overall home maintenance plan for the next five to 10 years by knowing the longevity of your home appliances and various components of your home .
APPLIANCES
Clothes dryer 14
Clothes washer 13
Dishwasher 10
Microwave oven 11
Range, electric 17
Range, gas 19
BATHROOM FIXTURES
Cast-iron tub 50
Fiberglass tub/shower 10-15
Toilet 50
COUNTER TOPS
Ceramic 15-25 years
Granite lifetime
laminated 10-15
Wood 20+
DOORS
Exterior, protected by overhang 80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25-30
Garage door 20-50
Garage-door opener 10
Interior, hollow core 30
Interior, solid core 30 to life
Screen 25-50
FLOORS
Oak or pine lifetime
Slate flagstone lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20-30
HEATERS and AIR CONDITIONERS
Heat Pump and Central Air Conditioner: 15 years
Furnace, gas- or oil-fired 16
Water heater, electric 11-14
Water heater, gas 11-13
LANDSCAPING
Deck, wooden 15
Driveway, asphalt 10
Fence 12
Patio, brick or concrete 24
Walkway, concrete 24
Walkway, gravel 4
ROOFING
Asphalt 15-30
Sheet metal 20-50
Slate 50-100
Tile 50
Wood shingles and shakes 15-35
SIDING
Aluminum 20-50
Metal 50 to life
Vinyl 30
Wood 30-100
According to The HomeTeam Inspection Service/HouseDoctors Handyman Service, in conjunction with the National Association of Home Builders, these numbers represent the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components of your home to last. Life expectancy may vary greatly depending on quality of material, installation, maintenance, environmental factors and use.
APPLIANCES
Clothes dryer 14
Clothes washer 13
Dishwasher 10
Microwave oven 11
Range, electric 17
Range, gas 19
BATHROOM FIXTURES
Cast-iron tub 50
Fiberglass tub/shower 10-15
Toilet 50
COUNTER TOPS
Ceramic 15-25 years
Granite lifetime
laminated 10-15
Wood 20+
DOORS
Exterior, protected by overhang 80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25-30
Garage door 20-50
Garage-door opener 10
Interior, hollow core 30
Interior, solid core 30 to life
Screen 25-50
FLOORS
Oak or pine lifetime
Slate flagstone lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20-30
HEATERS and AIR CONDITIONERS
Heat Pump and Central Air Conditioner: 15 years
Furnace, gas- or oil-fired 16
Water heater, electric 11-14
Water heater, gas 11-13
LANDSCAPING
Deck, wooden 15
Driveway, asphalt 10
Fence 12
Patio, brick or concrete 24
Walkway, concrete 24
Walkway, gravel 4
ROOFING
Asphalt 15-30
Sheet metal 20-50
Slate 50-100
Tile 50
Wood shingles and shakes 15-35
SIDING
Aluminum 20-50
Metal 50 to life
Vinyl 30
Wood 30-100
According to The HomeTeam Inspection Service/HouseDoctors Handyman Service, in conjunction with the National Association of Home Builders, these numbers represent the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components of your home to last. Life expectancy may vary greatly depending on quality of material, installation, maintenance, environmental factors and use.
Monday, May 4, 2009
How Long Will This Last? (By Request)
I think that most everybody checks expiration dates on items they purchase from a grocery store, especially if it is a bulk item. Knowing the longevity of your purchase will dictate how you use it. For example; you may not buy a bulk item if your family cannot finish the entire item before the expiration date, that would be a waste of money. The items you buy from a grocery store are small ticket items compared to the purchase of a home, but how many people check the expiration date of their home’s components and appliances? The answer is very few people know the longevity of their home’s components and appliances, unless they have had a handyman work on their house or have had a home inspection. As a homeowner, knowing the longevity of your home’s components and appliances can help you budget for repairs, and help avoid expensive surprises. As a home purchaser, knowing the longevity of the home’s components and appliances can help you make the best deal on your purchase. For example; If you are looking to purchase a home that is fifteen years old, and all components and appliances are original, you can expect to replace the appliances soon and other major components in the next five years. This house may not be for you, if you cannot budget twenty to thirty thousand dollars or more for repairs in the next five years. Or maybe this information can help you negotiate a purchase price that reflects the cost of the anticipated repairs.
Tune in tomorrow for a guide line list of the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components and appliances in your home to last.
Tune in tomorrow for a guide line list of the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components and appliances in your home to last.
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